landy19840 wrote:

warped

The pistons were defo all the way back tho.

Can you get them re-skimmed?

probably - although i suspect the price of the machining will be more than a set of decent after market disks. It'd be worth checking that the disks are actually warped though as you may not have noticed the wobble before and so it could be just dirt on the face of the hub when you changed the disks Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

landy19840 wrote:

Just driving down to the FOD, coming down some hills and general braking I noticed my brake peddle was very soft, like I was not gonna stop. I fitted new brakes about a month ago now but they have been fab and done over 1000 miles.

Any ideas why the peddle was soft???

Brake fluid change every three years regardless of mileage. How many miles have you covered since the car was new ? Discs and pads do wear quick and your discs might be running thin which might make them warp with heat.
If your driving down a long hill try putting on the brakes lighty, just enough to start slowing you down, if it feels like the cars constantly braking then letting go on quickly then your discs are warped and will need replacing.
Remember, if you replace discs, both discs on the front or the back will have to be done as a pair, also you will need to replace the pads too.
You can allso look on the discs upper most edge and some were on there there should be run out limmit marks.

Hi, I had a similar problem. I took the top off the brake fluid reservoir for a few seconds and put it back on. Problem solved, I think just a build up of air in the system. If that doesn't work then I'd go for a full bleed.

I think after nearly seven years the problem has been solved by now or the OP no longer owns the vehicle! Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
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True Steve, but it's always worth posting a solution in case someone else encounters the problem. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
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Thanks Pastmaster - that was my point!

landy19840 wrote:

I think I have had a binding brake causing the soft brakes. I have also noticed a vibration under heavy braking which I guess mean it's over heated and warped!

I was always taught that if you bleed the brakes every year getting rid of or 2 pedalsworth of fluid on each wheel then you don't need to change the fluid as you are ejecting the fluid that has been used over that year + any foreign objects from the rubber flexible lines.

Clive If it ain't ***ked don't fix it

Sorry but you were taught incorrectly . Glycol based brake fluid is hygroscopic . It will absorb moisture period , throughout the volume of fluid in the system , not just the volume in or near the calipers . When it is stored in bulk prior to filling into bottles there are driers on the storage tanks or a nitrogen blanket to stop this happening . Once it’s in you car system it starts absorbing moisture from the atmosphere immediately . That’s the reason you get two boiling points on a fluid, the lower one being the wet boiling point reached after atmospheric exposure . It’s plain daft not to flush out fluid in its entirety as it’s so cheap in relative costs that leaving degraded fluid in and topping up with new makes no sense . Just the same as using fluid to top up from an openened bottle makes no sense . 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

Point taken, but I think a lot of us have left our reserve of brake fuid open for a period while we have been working on the brakes (which is also bad working practice) and that is also a no no..

But many thanks for the correction  If it ain't ***ked don't fix it

It will take up to 3 years for the fluid to reach the wet boiling point in the system. A lot depends on the integrity of the system and the part of the world the vehicle is operating in and the type of operation . You are not going to have an issue having the top off the can or reservoir whilst you work . It’s storing the stuff with the welded foil seal broken over a period that renders it liable to moisture absorbtion . Sorry if I sound a bit of a smart-arse , but I worked in the contract manufacture and packing of brake fluids for some very famous brands . My only other bit of info on the subject is buy a top brand if you are changing your own fluid , yes the budget stuff from the local car shop will stop you but the product stewardship and quality behind the Castrols , Shells , Motul , Brembo etc is real it’s not just marketing 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .