Last edited by dunroof on 24th Jul 2012 12:16 am. Edited 1 time in total

just an aftermarket kit with a buzzer behind the dash? you may need a switch to turn it on manually At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Last edited by dunroof on 24th Jul 2012 12:17 am. Edited 1 time in total

Good Luck,
The dreaded Canbus, hope the faultmate can configure it

Keep us posted I'd be interested in fitting them too, due to my tight garage space

You may want to look a little better because the ECU is the same for front/rear system and rear only systems.
There are 3 connectors on the ECU. One for rear sensors (12 pins), one for front sensors (12 pins) and one for power, switch and CAN bus connection (16 pins).
Look at the parking aid ECU behind LH rear quarter trim panel in the boot.
Connect only the front sensors to your already installed rear only system, in the free 12 pins connector. And enable the front ones with Faultmate.

Last edited by dunroof on 24th Jul 2012 12:18 am. Edited 1 time in total

Oops... Seems that there are ones with one set of 12 pins missing...
I've saw one car with only back sensors and an ECU with 3 connectors 12+12+16 pins, where only one connector of 12 pins and the 16 pins connector were used. This is why I've said that the ECUs are identical...
But seems that the LR still ordered a cheap version with only 12+16 pins...
Hmmm...
There is no output for a buzzer on the parking aid ECU.
The signal for telling that you are close to an object is broadcasted over CAN bus.
The audio head unit knows how to interpret it, mute the audio when necessary and make proximity beeps.
If you put two (2) units for back on the bus, then the signals will overlap (a collision on the bus with 2 devices with the same address) and you may not have any warning at all...
But you can try it. There's nothing you can damage. The CAN bus is a bus with collision detection by default.
By the way...
On the broadcasted messages there are even informations about obstacle(s) distance to each sensor.
If you have the possibility you can even display the information graphically like on Audis or BMWs with proximity zones that turns green, yellow or red.
But in my opinion, it's better with beeps. When you maneuver in tight spaces you better look outside than on a display...

!

Last edited by dunroof on 24th Jul 2012 12:18 am. Edited 1 time in total

Last edited by dunroof on 24th Jul 2012 12:19 am. Edited 1 time in total

It's getting complicated already then?

No, honestly, it will get solved simply. Alex is quite right, you could chance the two rears. A simple check, once the weather gets better, is to connect in a second box and sensors, just without the routing etc and see how it handles the two signals. If there is a problem, then an ECU with three connectors. Fleabay has then at 40 quid, but would rather avoid that if possible as it starts getting expensive.

Dunroof, you made any inroads into this? For a free country, it does seem pretty expensive these days.

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Last edited by dunroof on 24th Jul 2012 12:20 am. Edited 1 time in total

You can have this done by a mobile fitter for approx £150.00....I guess that they simply power the sensors and buzzer from somewhere and run a switch into the cabin,

Maybe I'm missing something but why does it have to go through the canbus system ? I have fitted a few aftermarket kits and not bothered with canbus.

skidmark wrote:

You can have this done by a mobile fitter for approx £150.00....I guess that they simply power the sensors and buzzer from somewhere and run a switch into the cabin,

Maybe I'm missing something but why does it have to go through the canbus system ? I have fitted a few aftermarket kits and not bothered with canbus.

I think they are refering to a retro fit of the original equipment as fitted to higher model FL2s not Crappy aftermarket set ups and most things electrical is controled by the Canbus/body control unit