I just had mine done today. Noticeable difference, although the car has only done ~100 miles after the update.

Is this just for the diesel auto's or does this also apply to petrol version as well?

Only diesels...

2 threads merged Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Purchased an 08 XS from Ottons in Salisbury 2 months ago.

Having read this thread and being anxious about the performance of my gearbox I contacted them today to ask if the software update was needed/completed.

I was informed that the update is required and when I suggested that it would have been helpful if it had been picked up in the pre-delivery check was told 'it was only issued in the last month' this was maintained even when I quoted the distribution date from the LR Service Action!

Have now got it booked into my local dealer (TH White Swindon) for the update. I was told it will take 1/2 hour.

Will report back on what difference it makes.

On a slightly different issue this just shows the value of forums like this. Without the detailed knowledge shared by some members (Alex thank you) I would still be in the dark regarding this issue.

Dave

alex_pescaru wrote:

I've finally done today the Q106.
The behaviour is about 80-90% the same, as I've suspected from your descriptions and my box's previous firmware "acting".
Still I've noticed that when driving hard, it seems to change a little later than before, at higher revolutions. Which, in a way, is better, because after change the RPM drop in the 2000-2500 RPM range where the torque is optimal.
Also, following a hard push on the throttle (not kick down) from a light drive, will change the gears more intelligently, without hesitation and/or guessing and uses a lot more than before the lock-up clutch of the torque converter.
All in all, is a step towards the better.

PS: I've noticed that the firmware that was programmed on my car is already at version 2. Q106v2, from December 6.
Why is that, I don't know yet, but I hope that LR is not making experiments on us, correcting things on the move. Although, this is the way it's happening, generally speaking, on all auto manufacturers.

You'll experience that slip after the update too.
It's like the box is loosing the "grip" a little, the car tends to loose its pull, like a small hesitancy, and then engages the upper gear with a very light impulse forward, just like when you lift the foot of the clutch to quickly on a manual car, right?
This is relatively normal for an (diesel) engine with such torque. I believe that they didn't fine tune the box so much for all RPM ranges, all gear changes and all engine loads. Sometimes you'll feel it, sometimes you wont.
It's quite difficult to take into consideration all situations and program the box that in the same moment one gear clutch is disengaging the other one to engage.
In a way I am glad it is this way because I know for sure that the previous gear was almost fully disengaged when the new one is taking over. You know it's pretty bad from reliability point of view that two clutches to overlap.

What I mean that they use a little more the lock-up clutch you'll see when you drive a little hard.
You will see that after an upper gear change, the RPM will drop a little and after a few moments the RPM is dropping furthermore. First drop is after the gears have changed, but the torque converter is still slipping and the second RPM drop is when the lock-up clutch engages and you'll feel the pull stronger like on a manual car. You will feel it more evidently on a second to third gear change.
Before the update this double RPM drop wasn't so noticeable, and therefore I believe this was the moment when the slip/flare happened. Although I never experienced something like that.

alex_pescaru wrote:

You'll experience that slip after the update too.
It's like the box is loosing the "grip" a little, the car tends to loose its pull, like a small hesitancy, and then engages the upper gear with a very light impulse forward, just like when you lift the foot of the clutch to quickly on a manual car, right?

Quote:

This is relatively normal for an (diesel) engine with such torque. I believe that they didn't fine tune the box so much for all RPM ranges, all gear changes and all engine loads. Sometimes you'll feel it, sometimes you wont.
It's quite difficult to take into consideration all situations and program the box that in the same moment one gear clutch is disengaging the other one to engage.
In a way I am glad it is this way because I know for sure that the previous gear was almost fully disengaged when the new one is taking over. You know it's pretty bad from reliability point of view that two clutches to overlap.

What I mean that they use a little more the lock-up clutch you'll see when you drive a little hard.
You will see that after an upper gear change, the RPM will drop a little and after a few moments the RPM is dropping furthermore. First drop is after the gears have changed, but the torque converter is still slipping and the second RPM drop is when the lock-up clutch engages and you'll feel the pull stronger like on a manual car. You will feel it more evidently on a second to third gear change.
Before the update this double RPM drop wasn't so noticeable, and therefore I believe this was the moment when the slip/flare happened. Although I never experienced something like that.

alex_pescaru wrote:

You'll experience that slip after the update too.
It's like the box is loosing the "grip" a little, the car tends to loose its pull, like a small hesitancy, and then engages the upper gear with a very light impulse forward, just like when you lift the foot of the clutch to quickly on a manual car, right?

Quote:

This is relatively normal for an (diesel) engine with such torque. I believe that they didn't fine tune the box so much for all RPM ranges, all gear changes and all engine loads. Sometimes you'll feel it, sometimes you wont.
It's quite difficult to take into consideration all situations and program the box that in the same moment one gear clutch is disengaging the other one to engage.
In a way I am glad it is this way because I know for sure that the previous gear was almost fully disengaged when the new one is taking over. You know it's pretty bad from reliability point of view that two clutches to overlap.

What I mean that they use a little more the lock-up clutch you'll see when you drive a little hard.
You will see that after an upper gear change, the RPM will drop a little and after a few moments the RPM is dropping furthermore. First drop is after the gears have changed, but the torque converter is still slipping and the second RPM drop is when the lock-up clutch engages and you'll feel the pull stronger like on a manual car. You will feel it more evidently on a second to third gear change.
Before the update this double RPM drop wasn't so noticeable, and therefore I believe this was the moment when the slip/flare happened. Although I never experienced something like that.

attox wrote:

Yes it is exactly like that together with the light noise of the slipping clutch.

alex_pescaru wrote:

attox wrote:

Yes it is exactly like that together with the light noise of the slipping clutch.

That noise you are hearing, mostly on changes from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 it isn't a slipping clutch...
It's a characteristic noise of the car, a resonance sound made by a bearing inside the transfer case.
I was curious about that noise too, thinking that it comes from the auto box, but after I've put the car on an elevator and run it on gear(s), I've realized that it is from the transfer case.

Just had mine done and there is definitly a noticible difference for the better

Shame its turned of global door locking thingy whichI'm now going to have to work out how to turn back on  Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

unlock car then press lock button and hold it down for 15 seconds or so,
do this for each key fob and your global locking will be re-engaged.

Nice one save's me thumbing through the manual! Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

Just tried it! - once open you have to press lock and unlock button for 3 seconds... the indicators will blink and then global opening will be active for that key  Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints