1st time of having an auto gearbox and having problems as to what to do when in very slow moving traffic with stop.. start every few seconds then stopping at lights/junctions.

Do you,
Just use the footbrake.
Keep putting it in Neutral.
Keep putting it in Park.

I'm concerned that with the foot on the brake and the engine trying to move away that there could be premature wear on components. Offset your Carbon emissions by boycotting Baked Beans and all Green Vegitables.

In my opinion, first option.

There is no premature wear as the engine power is wasted inside the torque converter by raising just a little bit the temperature of the transmission oil/fluid.
Don't worry, at idle, the engine torque is kept as minimal as possible and therefore the increase in transmission fluid temperature is minimal (a few degrees, if left in drive for extended periods of time). This increase in temperature is negligible comparing with the stress being placed on the fluid during normal operation.

I personally switch to neutral only if the red lights and/or stationary traffic will be more than about 45 seconds. Here in Romania, almost all trafic lights have numerical countdowns. Otherwise, I left it in drive.

In moving traffic if you are sitting still for more than 10 - 20 seconds I tend to drop it into Neutral simply out of mechanical sympathy. This should stop the gearbox and torque converter from overheating although to be honest it would tolerate minutes in Drive and held by the brake.

also try and avoid using the brake to scrub speed off the car whilst crawling in traffic. Either let the engine take up drive (foot completely off the brake) or stop to a stand still and hold on the brake, using the brakes to continuously slow the car but not stop it completely will prematurely wear your pads / disks and could cause them to overheat.

More importantly its about doing what is safe in the situation you are in.... for example If you stop for a crossroads or pedestrian crossing, in theory you should drop into park and apply the handbrake as this would avoid you accidentally hitting a car / pedestrian in front of you should you get shunted from behind or have a narcoleptic fit. Personally I don’t do this as much as perhaps I should but then each to their own!  Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

Many thanks for the Tips folks, I might add that I try my hardest to avoid the use of the brake to slow the car down when in slow moving traffic.
On the Advanced Driving Course you are taught to use the Brake not the Gears to slow the car down when coming to a roundabout etc, then select the correct gear to move away at a speed that make the best use of time and safety.
My problem though relates to when the car moving forward under its own steam ie clawling at 4mph then having to stop for 10-20 seconds every 5 seconds. Tipical rush hour traffic. Offset your Carbon emissions by boycotting Baked Beans and all Green Vegitables.

My first post on this forum...

I've been driving autos for 20 years in a wide range of cars.

As far as I am concerned it is a two step process.

1. When you set off put it into 'D'
2. When you arrive put it into 'P'

that's it for 99% of journeys. If you want to do things with a gearstick buy a manual!

Advice from ROSPA

"Stops in traffic, at junctions and at traffic lights leave the selector in D. There is no need to move into neutral, as no damage will result. You may wish to set the parking brake if the pause becomes a wait but your decision will depend on the circumstances."

http://www.rospa.com/roadsafety/adviceandi...boxes.aspx Trevor

'60 reg SD4 XS (long gone!)

Welcome Trevor!

A very interesting first post and a good link to the RoSPA site, thank you! Andyfr

Hi, only advise I would add to the previous posts, really applies more to summer/warmer weather driving, in as much as I have found to my cost in a number of autos I have owned, and different makes, is that, if you keep your foot on brake at junctions or traffic lights, you will warp the front discs. I have had this happen on Fords, BMW's, and Land Rovers. This occurs as a result of localised hot spots from pads held for extended periods, causing the distortion, so I only hold my Freelander on the brakes for a short period only, if I'm held up for a while, I usually apply the hand brake, and knock it into neutral. putting back into drive again, only adds an extra second or two when pulling away.

From a previous post (not mine) -

According to a Wiki article the auto box fitted to the (newer) FL2 drops into neutral at standstill.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AWTF-80_SC

My 2008 version doesn't, but it would account for some of the fuel savings on the newer models. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

my 2010 doesn't either

I noticed this on a Land Rover dealer site.

Quote:

A second generation Asin Warner AWF21 automatic transmission helps improve efficiency and emissions with a number of improvements. The Torque converter lock-up works over a wider range improving comfort, fuel economy and driveability, while optimisation of internal components reduces weight and inertia for faster shifting. The gear train has been improved with low drag torque friction plates, taper roller bearings and optimised components for greater efficiency. Transmission efficiency is also improved by a switch to low viscosity automatic transmission fluid, while the new control system is faster and has been reduced in weight.

The most significant change is the advanced neutral control logic which reduces drag when the vehicle is stationary, the engine at idle and Drive selected. While not actually selecting neutral, drive load is substantially reduced to save fuel and improve refinement. The calibration of the transmission has been revised by Land Rover engineers to reduce torque converter slip.