2007 Manual TD4. For the first time, today I have the orange "Engine System Fault" indicating continuously when runniing. Recently during the cold weather I have occassionally had the "Reduced Engine Performance" indication which has disappeared soon after moving off. In neither case have I noticed any change in the performance of the vehicle. Probably a faulty sensor. Going in Friday to LR dealer for the diagnostic check. Still just within extended warranty so any parts and labour required will be covered but still have to pay £45 for the diagnostic check. Apparently this is not covered by the AA Warranty policy. Have been very pleased with the vehicle generally despite the odd electronic quirk. It is a real joy to drive.

Update. The Engine System Fault indication only occurred during that one day but having booked the vehicle in thought it best to carry on with getting it checked out. Diagnostic check concluded that both the above fault indications,which didn't actually affect the performance of the car, were due to low battery voltage. Battery condition itself was considered ok. LR service dept suggested trickle charging now and again especially in cold weather when the battery is working hard starting and running auxiliaries means alternator is less effective. Apparently no need to disconnect or remove battery for trickle charging despite what the manual says. With care power cable should be ok through the gap in side of closed bonnet. All at ones own risk of course.

good you got a solution to the problem, and good info for us all in this cold weather.

Iain

Both warnings/errors were when the car was running, right? I mean the engine was running.
Then the system voltage is well in the range of proper functioning of all electronics, because the alternator/generator was working. So the voltage was somewhere between 13-15V. More than OK.
So, when the errors have appeared, other things must went wrong, not the battery...
Just my 2 cents....

Yes good point Alex. Certainly the engine was running when the faults showed. I am just wondering if it maybe during the system check before the engine actually starts that initiates the fault. The wonders of computor controlled cars.

When an error appears and deserves attention, it is shown to the user right away, not later.
There are errors that they are just stored and later tested, but errors like yours for sure appeared in that moment.
For errors like yours a so called "snapshot" or "freeze frame" is stored inside NV RAM of engine ECU.
The diagnose equipment can read this snapshot and tell from there the conditions when it appears.
They include time and date, engine RPM, engine load, engine torque, road speed, battery voltage, etc.
Insist at the dealer to properly interrogate fault codes.

Thanks Alex. They did give me a print out of what they found. Seemed to be a description of old error codes with the mileage at which they occurred. If I have time I could post the results but I am inclined to just wait and see if the faults reappear and keep a check on the battery. Thanks for your interest.

Just had similar fault - LR assistance came out this morning - diagnostics showed EGR valve stuck shut - however no loss of power, cleared fault and test drive all ok. Set off for work 2 hours later, 100 yds and fault reoccured !!!!!! same guy coming out tomorrow, I am thinking electronic glitch - but a trip to the dealers is required

I assume it is the Engine System Fault you had. Would be interested to hear in due course what your dealer comes up with. The report of my diagnostic showed a log P0045-19 - Turbocharger actuator power stage output 1 circuit overload. This was logged about 2000 miles ago and I don't remember seeing any fault displayed on the dashboard at that time. The diagnostic report goes on to say that P0045-19 may log due to poor battery condition rather than a turbo related/wiring fault. As Alex says you should get a print out of the fault codes with explanation from the dealer but whether you can get as much detail as he would expect I don't know.

In time, because of the carbon deposits on the vanes of the turbo, and because the actuation mechanism develop a slight play, turbo's vanes actuation became more and more difficult.
See the actuation here:
And another video which explains things:
So, in time, this error could appear, because of the increasingly effort to move then.
Therefore your P0045-19 error.
If the error repeats, it's a sign that the turbo's vanes are sticking and need cleaning and also it's possibly that the flatness of their actuation mechanism needs reworking.
But no dealer will do that. They will change the whole turbocharger.

This is way I keep saying that a turbo engine needs to be driven on boost.
To reduce the conditions for the carbon deposits to accumulate.
A happy drive will give you a happy turbo.

Thanks Alex. Very informative as always. Can I tell when I am driving on boost and how long do you think would give it a good clean out. Is it a matter of driving continuously at 2000 rpm and above or is it more a case of frequent hard acceleration? Thanks.

My opinion, for a warmed up engine:
- Keep RPM over 2000, because from there the turbo is fully working;
- Never kick-down below 1700-1800 RPM for avoiding surge phenomena; Light, at most medium throttle up to 1800, then you can give it hell.
- Drive it happily, relatively hard, until you reach the desired speed and then keep it there lightly;
- Once in a while (at least once a week) drive it really hard, around red zone (RPM 4000), again after full warm-up. Beware of the traffic rules - better do it on country, free roads.
Remember, a diesel engine it's a compression engine and therefore it's working the best - has maximum efficiency - when the pressure inside cylinders is higher, meaning the turbo must be fully working - on boost.

Ok thanks Alex. Mine is a manual but obviously same principle applies. Will give it a try once our icy roads are clear.

Right update on problem: Car into dealers via LR assist 20th, Range Rover sport as courtesy car After a lot of time from LR they said they couldnt find anything wrong and thought changing the Power Control Module for this would be the way to go, car eventually returned on 31st, with a 'all sorted for you!!' !st Jan - 'bing' engine system fault light back on. Booked a visit from LR assist for the 4th, same fault EGV stuck open. Took car back to dealers and with 2 miles to go, it went into reduced power mode - hopefully this will lead them to the fault. Cant fault the back up from LR assist or the dealers really ....... fingers crossed

Yes.... thumbs up to Alex there." Tootling" around feels as though your being kind to your engine but in reality your doing it no favours what so ever!