Anyone got any suggestions on this little issue we're starting to see on our 07 FL2?

A few weeks ago (well before the cold weather), SWMBO reported that she couldn't find 6th, but then it reappeared whilst coasting trying to find it. Couldn't repeat the problem.

A few days later, I had the car and it did the same to me, just once, just like there was a great big gap where you expect to find a gear. Bit of stirring around and 6th reappeared, and once again, the problem couldn't be repeated.

Today SWMBO had the problem again although with 4th to 5th, except this time she "forced" the gearstick (not quite sure where) and it got stuck. Once the vehicle was stationary, it let go of the gearstick and all was well again.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what this might be? I initially was worried that it might be an (expensive) selector problem, but then I found this thread: http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic2108.html and wondered if the problem might just be that the electronics which prevent you selecting reverse when moving forwards aren't engaging, and sometimes you take the stick down the 6th gear path, and sometimes you head for reverse?

Google turned up this page: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelande...23328.html which points me back here, but I can't find what it's talking about...

Then I found this page: http://www.freel2.com/forum/post12617.html but I'm still not sure where I should be looking - under the bonnet at the gearbox somewhere, or under the gearstick gaiter? Does it apply the interlock at the gearstick, in the 'box or both?

Any suggestions anyone?

try looking under the battery box under the bonnet , you will see the ends of the two gear selector cables. oil/grease them. get someone to operate the gears as you do. if this doesnt cure it you can lift the gear gaiter inside but there isnt much too grease in there.
If that doesnt work its maybe the lockout solenoid At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

OK, so I've tried greasing the cables although they look pretty clean and free moving anyway, I'll try a test drive tomorrow.

I've also checked under the gear stick gaiter and can see the lockout solenoid. What I'd like to do is to be able to take the car for a spin with the gaiter removed so that I can see what it's up to. I can't see how to remove the gear knob to get the gaiter, sound deadening and trim panel removed - can anyone throw any light on this? The instructions I found said just to pull but there's nothing giving there.

There are also some clips which retain the lever end of the cables for the linkage. I had an issue with one clip popping out of it's position but that actually made it not engage 2nd properly - often dropping out into neutral. Could be a similar issue - probably needs dealer attention.

The cables did look securely clipped into place and there was no movement where they engage the gearstick mechanism, so I'm guessing that that's not the problem. Also, once it's in a gear, there's not been any signs of it dropping out of gear.

Having looked at how the reverse gear lockout works, it looks like if the solenoid engages but either not far enough, or if there was wear in the gear linkage part that the solenoid engages into, you could end up with the solenoid jamming the way back from reverse gate to the forwards gears, which sounds like the symptoms my wife has been experiencing.

I'll try to take a picture tomorrow as I think that this will make it clearer.

ajuniper
To remove the gear lever knob you will need to simply: 1) put it in neutral, 2) take a firm hold of it, 3) pull strongly straight up - you will feel resistance first (especially if it has never been removed before) but it will come off.

To remove the gaiter you will need to remove the whole silver trim surround that envelopes the Terrain Response & Gear Lever. It is held in position by 4 clips located one on each of the rear corners and one each left and right by the centre cross bar between the TR & GL. To do this start at the rear corners nearest the hand brake lever by sliding a thin plastic lever underneath the silver surround and applying gentle upward pressure. Once the rear two clips are undone move forward towards the dash aircon/heating controls to release the middle two clips in the same fashion. Once all 4 clips are loose lift the silver surround up and backwards towards the handbrake lever.

You will now be able to lift the whole surround including the black GL gaiter up and over the gear lever to gain unrestricted access to the linkage underneath.

Also you should check the following is correctly torqued: The ball pin on the transmission shift lever at the gearbox end may be loose. It should be torqued to 20Nm (+/- 3Nm). LR issued on the 26th April 2010 a SSM 44149 - Symptom: Customer reporting gearshift linkage does not operate freely - partially sized or stiff.

I've had the problem on my 07. It is the electrical connector on the reverse solenoid on the gear stick assembly.
Just removing and reconnecting the connector has cured the problem.
You can just about do it by prising off the chrome surround of the gaiter. Disconnect the traction control plug and lift up the sound insulation. The two pin connector is at the rhs below the stick.

That's good to hear, I removed and reconnected that plug a couple of nights ago, so we'll see if that's fixed the problem.

Hi...did removing an replacing the connector solve the problem??

Hopefully it did and hes not still trying to put it all back together, be nice to get an update though.

I'd be in big trouble if I was still trying to put it back together again!

It does seem to have fixed the problem - I've had no complaints in the 2+ years since I unplugged/re-plugged it.

Had the same problem for the last week...did what jwoch said and fixed it in 10 minutes...thanks! To disconnect the plug just push down on the top of it with a screwdriver and push away at the same time ...you only need to go about half a cm back then re-couple it...saves a lot of fiddling! And Ive saved a lot of money...dealer estimated £150 plus dreaded.

Did this litle fix myself last week, works a treat. Just levered off and refitteed a few times, and problem gone. No longer is the lever going too far, into reverse, and much easier to select 5th & 6th.

To remove gearknob - first unclip and pull down the gaiter, than you can just ease the knob clip and it slides off, don't pul up as previously suggested.

Hi all,
Useful info in this thread and maybe I can add a variation on the theme:
My wife had an issue today with our manual TD4 FL2 being stuck in 6th, she pulled over stopped the car and was then able to exit 6th, then set off to finish journey and gears behaved themselves all rest of day. For info it was -10 deg C at 7am this morning, cold but not especially so in our locale. Later in the day the the AFS (adaptive front light system) warning light was flashing.

According to hand book:
AFS is deactivated when:-
• reverse gear is selected.
• the vehicle is stationary.
• daylight running lamps are on.

and from maintenance manual:
If during AFS operation a fault is detected, the AFS indicator will flash at a frequency of 2 Hz.

I've re-seated the reverse inhibit solenoid connector and taken it for a test drive and no problems with exiting 6th and the AFS is operating fine with no warning lights.

If any further occurrences of either issue show themselves I will post an update.
My thinking/question is could both issues be related to the reverse inhibit mechanism issue?

The OP and others describe symptoms I've had twice now. First time I put down to a one off, but today the shift stuck on the right side of the selection area. I had to freewheel to a lay-by to get normal gears again. After that it was fine.

A quick freel2 search revealed this thread for which I'm grateful, so I'll have a prod around in there tomorrow and toggle solenoid connector off/on.

Fingers crossed! '57 FL2 Td4 HSE, 135k, purch Nov '14
So far: Osram nightbreakers, new mats, gear shift knob, battery, 2nd earth strap, bonnet strut, new plates, Bluefin ECU remap
To Do: Heated screen fault, possible glo-plug fault, brakes and discs, alloy refurb, after market fixed sat nav