When were them fuel reg's brought in...because there was a big thing last winter with people's diesels not starting because the fuel had emulsified?

Nice to know I won't have to worry about it when I go skiing towards the end of december in scotland Are you going again NPinks? Mine: 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35
Family's: 2009 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto, Stornoway

Yorkshire - God's County

At a guess 27 years agpo at least, I recall having trouble with diesel freezing in 1982, we then started having heated fuel filters fitted as it was waxing in the gauze of the filter, the following year I think they started adding the additive. But 82 was the last year we had trouble with "waxing" prior to that we ran with an egg cup full of anti freeze per 30 gallons of diesel and every fill up we had to drop the water trap as the antifreeze would settle in it, half a gallon of petrol per 30 gallons worked ok also, one thing we always did was make sure the tank was brimmed every night.

At a guess 27 years ago, I recall having trouble with diesel freezing in 1982, we then started having heated fuel filters fitted as it was waxing in the gauze of the filter, the following year I think they started adding the additive. But 82 was the last year we had trouble with "waxing" prior to that we ran with an egg cup full of anti freeze per 30 gallons of diesel and every fill up we had to drop the water trap as the antifreeze would settle in it, half a gallon of petrol per 30 gallons worked ok also, one thing we always did was make sure the tank was brimmed every night. I think the additive is supposed to be enough to cope with -15 but a lot depends on the fuel line runs, if they are protected from the elements they will cope with lower temperatures, we used to find that UK vehicles could not cope with the lower temperatures compared to the Swedish vehicles.

ad210358 wrote:

At a guess 27 years ago, I recall having trouble with diesel freezing in 1982, we then started having heated fuel filters fitted as it was waxing in the gauze of the filter, the following year I think they started adding the additive. But 82 was the last year we had trouble with "waxing" prior to that we ran with an egg cup full of anti freeze per 30 gallons of diesel and every fill up we had to drop the water trap as the antifreeze would settle in it, half a gallon of petrol per 30 gallons worked ok also, one thing we always did was make sure the tank was brimmed every night. I think the additive is supposed to be enough to cope with -15 but a lot depends on the fuel line runs, if they are protected from the elements they will cope with lower temperatures, we used to find that UK vehicles could not cope with the lower temperatures compared to the Swedish vehicles.

DiscoGeorge wrote:

ad210358 wrote:

At a guess 27 years ago, I recall having trouble with diesel freezing in 1982, we then started having heated fuel filters fitted as it was waxing in the gauze of the filter, the following year I think they started adding the additive. But 82 was the last year we had trouble with "waxing" prior to that we ran with an egg cup full of anti freeze per 30 gallons of diesel and every fill up we had to drop the water trap as the antifreeze would settle in it, half a gallon of petrol per 30 gallons worked ok also, one thing we always did was make sure the tank was brimmed every night. I think the additive is supposed to be enough to cope with -15 but a lot depends on the fuel line runs, if they are protected from the elements they will cope with lower temperatures, we used to find that UK vehicles could not cope with the lower temperatures compared to the Swedish vehicles.

ad210358

It is common for vehicles in Scandinavia to be fitted with petrol or electrical (220V) engine heaters. Of the electrical engine heater variety, there are two different methods used. The one was/is a heating element in the engine sump, the other one is a heating element outside the sump, which transfers the heat to the engine oil via a special heating element attached to the side of the sump. Heat is transferred with a special heat conducting paste, similar to that used on heat sinks in PC's. Most diesel vehicles running in Scandinavia are also fitted with a heated filter bowl. RACOR makes such devices.

Pity you do not get the facts correct before citing what we use in Scandinavia.  2007 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Manual with Premium Pack & Moonroof.
Stornoway Grey with Ebony Black Pleather, Clear Indicators, Body Side Mouldings etc.

Hi Andy

http://www.defa.com/finn_dok_h.php3?merke=...mp;ndid=14

I am sure you are familiar with this one. It is widely used in Scandinavia  With kind regards
DiscoGeorge
1998 Disco1 ES 300Tdi with twin TrueTracs
2005 Disco3 TDV6 S
And some more serious stuff

DiscoGeorge wrote:

Hi Andy

http://www.defa.com/finn_dok_h.php3?merke=...mp;ndid=14

I am sure you are familiar with this one. It is widely used in Scandinavia

Hi DG:
Correction "was" widely used in Scandinavia

I have had DEFA motor warmer combined with car interior warmers and built in battery charger, fitted to all my previous Norwegian petrol cars that I have owned. I therefore do have very good experience with them and they have worked extremely well, particularly when fitted to that type of older vehicle which may stand out all night.

However, there is not much call for them these days and hardly anybody has them fitted unless living in "extreme conditions" in Scandinavia and presumably Russia. Britain does not does not experience extreme winter weather and neither does South Africa and therefore there is no use for motor warmers in those places.

In particular the FL2 does not need one (unless you live in an arctic area) and with all the electronic start wizardry which is standard on the FL2, she should start perfectly every time in all winter temperatures most forum members are likely to experience. Our Freely has started easily every time during the last three cold winters we have experienced with temperatures down to -30C.

In my opinion, if anybody has start problems there is a problem with their FL2 that needs fixing, but putting "Freely" to bed with a hot water bottle and packing her in cotton wool for the night is (putting it mildly) quite unnecessary. 2007 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Manual with Premium Pack & Moonroof.
Stornoway Grey with Ebony Black Pleather, Clear Indicators, Body Side Mouldings etc.

Hi Andy

yes you are right with the advancement of electronics etc for starting cars in colder weather.

This however will only work, if the battery in the vehicle is in good condition and fully charged. Semi charged and/or sulphated batteries will be responsible for incorrect voltage signals from the various sensors which will then result in a start-abort incident as described higher up.

With ever more electronics in motor vehicles, this preventative maintenance has gained a lot more importance than in years gone by.  With kind regards
DiscoGeorge
1998 Disco1 ES 300Tdi with twin TrueTracs
2005 Disco3 TDV6 S
And some more serious stuff

DiscoGeorge wrote:

Semi charged and/or sulphated batteries will be responsible for incorrect voltage signals from the various sensors which will then result in a start-abort incident as described higher up.

alex_pescaru wrote:

DiscoGeorge wrote:

Semi charged and/or sulphated batteries will be responsible for incorrect voltage signals from the various sensors which will then result in a start-abort incident as described higher up.

A little off-topic, for the above issue.
From what I've saw on my time around car electronics, the latest control managements modules are all digital.
So the functioning voltages for the inside electronics are around 5V. Some of them are even 3.3V.
All sensors that require a voltage supply are functioning at these voltages. For example the MAF or crankshaft/camshaft positioning sensors, pressure sensors, etc. Also sensors like NTC thermistors that measure different temperatures are connected on the ADC ports of the microcontrollers that also uses voltage references like 3.3 or 5V.
Those voltages (3.3-5V) are obtained by voltage regulators that, for proper functioning, require a minimum voltage difference of 2V.
So most of the current ECUs (and Bosch EDC16 which is used on our diesel FL2s is no exception) will function properly down to almost 7V.
Therefore an incorrect signal from a sensor is rarely a problem.
The problem is with the execution hardware (micro-motors, injectors, relays, etc) which are indeed driven by the ECU at 12V (for injectors, being piezo, there is a step up converter that supplies about 150V) and could cause problems on lower voltages.

My trip to Finland is soon to be.
-40C. I'll report back. If I get home again that is.........
Must say I'm kinda worried with the issues I have had in -14C. FL2, TD4 HSE
The flaming Orange!

redlabel wrote:

My trip to Finland is soon to be.
-40C. I'll report back. If I get home again that is.........
Must say I'm kinda worried with the issues I have had in -14C.

Hi Redlabel

Take a CTEK along and spike the diesel with some 2-Stroke oil. Read the relevant thread for all the info on that. It REALLY WORKS!!!  With kind regards
DiscoGeorge
1998 Disco1 ES 300Tdi with twin TrueTracs
2005 Disco3 TDV6 S
And some more serious stuff

I will actually try this.......  FL2, TD4 HSE
The flaming Orange!

I had 2 defective glow plugs. Dealer on Friday! FL2, TD4 HSE
The flaming Orange!