You what to try the snow up in the North East,
Almost got stuck put the snow is anythink from 8" to 22" deep,and 6" of hard pack ice /snow on all side roads.
good luck to normal car

I've had my LR2 for about a week now, and had the opportunity to do some snow driving yesterday. One thing I noticed, when set in Snow Mode, I had to depress the gas pedal much further when more power was needed. It's as if the vehicle had lost power, and the RPM's were decreased quite a bit.

I'm assuming that this is normal, and the purpose is to prevent wheel spin?

My apologies for the silly newbie question.

Yepp - that’s how TR works - it does just that among other things  2007 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Manual with Premium Pack & Moonroof.
Stornoway Grey with Ebony Black Pleather, Clear Indicators, Body Side Mouldings etc.

Hi all,

Just popped in for some quick tips on driving on the white stuff. My wife managed to have probably the best prang ever yesterday by failing to stop at a T-junction (just kept on sliding) and has "lost" the front NS headlamp squirty and fog lamp surround with apparently zero damage to the other guy's car.

So... thoughts please on ABS vs. the brakes when the slide starts. If it happens should you keep ON the brakes and let the ABS do its job or work with the car using cadence braking too? My inclination is to do the former but I am interested in the views of more experienced drivers. Naturally the terrain response is set to 'snow'...

Thanks!

let the ABS do the work, scary but true.

discussions could go on for ever like this one

http://www.pistonheads.com/GASSING/topic.a...&mid=0 At work
At home

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Thanks for that reference CG... seems like we both agree with the consensus.

Loved this comment:

bananapieface wrote:

Locking up the wheels in snow will get the tyres thru to the tarmac and hopefully find grip.

...there is no hope of that here where the snow is now compacted ice. Idiot.

Mind you, a reminder to 2WD drivers to turn off TCS to get traction is timely. Fell victim to that myself last year and had to be pushed out of a car pack (by two ladies!) in my RWD weapon of choice at the time...

Once ABS starts you should keep the brakes on. It is scary, especially if the road is icy where the car seems to be moving at the same speed although your foot is flat to the floor!

I read somewhere, that if you lift off with ABS that the system resets, if you the cadence brake you can lock the wheels up as the system has not reset itself. Hi Darling, I'll be home in 10 mins. If I'm not back, please read this message again...

xtattsbox wrote:

Once ABS starts you should keep the brakes on. It is scary, especially if the road is icy where the car seems to be moving at the same speed although your foot is flat to the floor!

I read somewhere, that if you lift off with ABS that the system resets, if you the cadence brake you can lock the wheels up as the system has not reset itself.

I agree, ABS does have its place but it's not so effective on packed snow/ice, braking distance is increased when compared to 'threshold' braking. If braking can be effected and held before wheel lock then i believe it will result in a shorter braking distance and I try not to let ABS cut in.

slamming the anchors on and having the ABS kicking is bad driving, unless its on black ice etc then there is little you can do

brake softly, but firmly enough to slow and leave plenty of gap between you

Its those behind you that has me worried, driving too close and slipping every were  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

ABS braking will only work if one wheel can detect some grip, I think, it does not have a vehicle motion sensor and only works from detecting differing wheel rotation speeds, thus if you brake on black ice where theres no grip at all and all wheels lock and cant detect any grip at all the system will merely think the cars stationary and it wont work. I think folk that dont know a lot about the workings of a car are lulled in a false sense of security thinking oh Ive got ABS, traction control, Skid control, dynamic this and that, so I can drive normally on ice, when in fact if youre on black ice nothing works at all except just very slow and careful basic driving. I was only wrong once and thats when I thought I was but wasnt.

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You can't stop 4wd any better than any other vehicle unless you've got chains, fact.
Yes, we get more grip uphill but can still skid just the same.

2 tons take some stopping!!

True we can skid to a stop like any other.
I remember years ago in my XR2 someone pulled out in front of me in snowy weather, no ABS and I slammed on the anchors. Everything was in slow motion as I careered towards him with wheels locked, but the funny thing is I was out of my seat standing on the brake pedal thinking it would help, it didn't. If only I backed off the pressure and practiced what I knew was right.

EYorkshire wrote:

I agree, ABS does have its place but it's not so effective on packed snow/ice, braking distance is increased when compared to 'threshold' braking. If braking can be effected and held before wheel lock then i believe it will result in a shorter braking distance and I try not to let ABS cut in.

Threshold braking is not cadence braking, cadence braking will never better ABS but I believe threshold braking can in packed ice/snow.
Threshold braking is just that, knowing how hard to brake before reaching the threshold where the wheel will lock, so in effect none of your wheels will lock and traction is kept fully for braking.