A quick how-to for a quick job - should comfortably be less than an hour. And it probably won't require a new switch either, just a bit of cleaning.

Symptoms were that the boot would try to open whenever the car was unlocked, but to release it completely always required using the button on the remote. Once the boot was closed again, it could only be opened by the remote. There are quite a few threads discussing this problem.

Only tools needed are a cross head screwdriver and a 10mm socket.

Follow the instructions with the photos in my photo gallery:
https://www.freel2.com/gallery/thumbnails....mp;sort=ta

I found that the electrical switch hadn't broken, it was just the plastic bit which actuates it which had siezed in some kind of crud. I have no idea what the crud is that ends up making it sieze, it looks like limescale but I don't understand how it could be.

And as Mr Haynes says, reassembly is a reversal of the removal procedure. Just make sure that all those clips engage!

Hope this helps someone...

It is good work! Thank you.
But why aren't there any nuts for holding of the number plate light housing on third and fourth picters? 
Freelander II 2,2 TD SE Stornoway Grey

Sorry for my wry English. I began to study it recently.
I'll be thankful for your corrections of my mistakes

Two (simple) reasons - I'd already removed them, and I didn't get the camera angle right to see them anyway.

I've circled in red where they can be found... if you look at the full size photo the red circle should be visible.

ajuniper - good job thanks, and as for the technical term ''Work the flappy bit.....'' just fantastic.

mcphersonstrut wrote:

ajuniper - good job thanks, and as for the technical term ''Work the flappy bit.....'' just fantastic.

Thanks - I do like to use the correct technical terms

Hi, I need a bit of advice. I pulled everything apart as per the instructions and I can remove the actuater by flicking it up with a butter knife but it just drops down again. Does anyone know if this means the actuator needs to be replaced or is this satill the crud playing havoc? Cheers!

The flap should move freely to fall away from the microswitch, with the spring ensuring that it is clear of the microswitch unless pressed.

Is the spring broken?

The spring is a flat metal affair which you can just see in the last two photos. I think that I saw a post somewhere on here (maybe from Chicken George?) saying that he'd replaced the spring with something more meaty.

Hi!

Thanks for your prompt reply! The spring looks good. When I plug it back together, I reapply the rubber cover and the switch doesn't work. When I start to remove the rubber cover the switch is audibly continuously working. Wierd! Thoughts?

It's not something silly like the rubber cover on the wrong way around is it? (Sorry, but I do like to ask stupid questions )

With the switch oriented as in the last photo, the flap should be resting on the springs before the rubber cover is fitted. And the rubber cover should line up with the flap in its rest position.

When you say that the switch is audibly working, I assume that you mean the switch and not the lock?

Is the microswitch itself working correctly? With the flap moved out of the way, can you hear the switch click if you push it, and click again as you release it?

my stronger spring was on a fl1. quite different to the switch in the pics. that one looks strong rubust and clean compared the state my fl1's switch was in At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

The microswitch does not extend out unless I pick it out, so if it is meant to make a sound when it slides in and out then I thoink this Is probably the issue. Thank you so much for your help.

If you have a meter capable of measuring resistance, it's easy to check that the switch is operating correctly.

The pin in the middle of the microswitch should push in (only moves a little) and then spring back out when released.

If it is the microswitch then you could try cutting it out and replacing it with a standard one, otherwise I guess that you're in for a trip to the stealers... Stratstones in Aylesbury wanted around £20 for a replacement.

Yeah, the pin has lost it's spring I think. Thank you so much for your advice, I followed your excellent guide to the letter and still didn't fix It, I thought I was doing something wrong!. Once again, cheers!

thanks again guys just logged on as the tailgate on my fl2 was opening when you opened a door or moved off found this post on 1st page 15 mins later problem solved cleaned out micro switch with wd 40 must have been stuck and was opening on the slightest movement and not opening at all using tailgate handle switch

Good write up.

Mine went like this as well. Tried the clean up way and it didn't really fix it, so for the sake of £17 I bought a new switch and ensure the fault was permanently fixed. Freelander 2 HSE Lux 2013MY - Barolo Black with Ivory Leather. Alpine DVD - Privacy -Evoque 20" Dynamic Wheels and more to come.........