Thanks SS, what's the fix. major or minor? 2010MY Freelander 2 HSE Auto
Santorini Black with Ebony Napoli Leather

Yes it is because the engine is labouring.... but it's a diesel - they are meant to pull from low rpm!! That's whats legendary about diesels - you don't need to rev them - you can trundle around at 1200rpm.

The other day I approached an intersection... *almost* coming to a halt and then the traffic cleared and I tried to accelerate in 2nd and the engine nearly jumped out the bonnet it struggled so much. Had to shift to 1st. I have driven a LOT of diesels in my time, commercial and passenger, turbo and non, and I have never had one more gutless than this at low rpm. Even my old Renault Scenic 1.5 (80hp) diesel was smoother than this. Ridiculous.

It's hard to argue that you are changing too soon when the 'eco' shift light is telling you to shift!! You have to ignore it and give it more revs to make sure it doesn't struggle with each gear change. Nothing green about that!

Rant over Thanks for all the comments / advice by the way, much appreciated

Other than the above.... loving the rest of the car

I would say the vibration is not normal providing you are in the right gear for the road speed and the engine is not struggling.

what I will say is that the FL2 is very very high geared, so much so at 30mph it is sitting at 1000rpm or even less in 6th gear !!

so if you have a manual you do really need to use the gearbox to get the best from the engine and as I have said before it is a superb gearchange and a pleasure to use.

my previous Disco 2 TD5 was an entirely different vehicle and would quite happily pull away from 30mph in top gear although she only had around 136 bhp compared to the 160 bhp of FL2.

two very different vehicles to drive, but each with their good points.

it may take you a bit to master the manual due to the highgearing, but there is always the auto option if your not happy.

Iain

Under running-in instructions it advises against labouring the engine and revving above 3000rpm
On page 19 of the handbook it advises that the engine is most fuel efficient between 2000 and 3000 rpm.
I think you will find as the engine gets some miles on it, it will pull better at lower revs than when new. Remember there are never problems, just new challenges

Thanks.... I know from general experience not to labour the engine or over rev it during running in - which is why I am so paranoid about the vibration. I do my best to keep it in a 'safe' zone but don't you think the eco light that encourages you to change gear when you clearly shouldn't, needs to be recalibrated - if only during the run in period although I am pretty sure the same will apply even when the engine is run in!

However.... as an aside - I asked the dealer if there was any running in period or general advice and they said there wasn't one!!

TonyJ wrote:

Under running-in instructions it advises against labouring the engine and revving above 3000rpm
On page 19 of the handbook it advises that the engine is most fuel efficient between 2000 and 3000 rpm.
I think you will find as the engine gets some miles on it, it will pull better at lower revs than when new.

Flylr, I fully understand what you are saying, my auto has vibration problems the same as you describe. Mine is auto and 70mph in 6th gear is marginally short of 2000rpm, if you drop to 60mph then accelerate to 70 without kickdown (which is not necessary) vibration occurs between 1600 and 1900rpm. It is also more pronounced if on an incline.
To disprove those who talk about labouring etc : engage cruise at 65mph and vibration increases when going uphill at same speed, if this was supposedly too high a gear (and 65 in 6th is not) auto would drop to 5th.
The worst vibration I have found was on long steep overtaking lane, i kicked down at 40mph and car went up through gears perfectly until i was nearly 70 mph at about 2600-2800rpm when vibration was really bad, then up to 6th gear and on to 80mph without any vibration.
The MAJOR factor in assesing this fault is that I drove my previous 08 identical model for 26000 miles without ever noticing even the slightest vibration or resonance.
This is a March 2010 new car now at 2200miles with Goodyear Wrangler tyres identical to previous model.
I fitted my SE wheels (courtesy of ebay) which have nearly new Continentals and fault is just the same. All FL2's (3) Gone
2011 Mercedes C180 CGI Gone
FL2 GS Auto SD with heated leather, factory tints, alloy spare and a few other bits.

Mine is a March 2010 as well. Coincidence??

druand wrote:

Flylr, I fully understand what you are saying, my auto has vibration problems the same as you describe. Mine is auto and 70mph in 6th gear is marginally short of 2000rpm, if you drop to 60mph then accelerate to 70 without kickdown (which is not necessary) vibration occurs between 1600 and 1900rpm. It is also more pronounced if on an incline.
To disprove those who talk about labouring etc : engage cruise at 65mph and vibration increases when going uphill at same speed, if this was supposedly too high a gear (and 65 in 6th is not) auto would drop to 5th.
The worst vibration I have found was on long steep overtaking lane, i kicked down at 40mph and car went up through gears perfectly until i was nearly 70 mph at about 2600-2800rpm when vibration was really bad, then up to 6th gear and on to 80mph without any vibration.
The MAJOR factor in assesing this fault is that I drove my previous 08 identical model for 26000 miles without ever noticing even the slightest vibration or resonance.
This is a March 2010 new car now at 2200miles with Goodyear Wrangler tyres identical to previous model.
I fitted my SE wheels (courtesy of ebay) which have nearly new Continentals and fault is just the same.

superspark wrote:

The Freelander 2 has a DUEL MASS flywheel which in short is two units in one and works like this. The flywheel is fixed to the crankshaft and rotates with the engine. As the crankshaft turns there is a pluse from each compression stroke. Thee second half of the duel mass flywheel can turn clockwise and anti clockwise by so many degrees. This is controlled by springs to dampen the pluses from the engine and thus delivering a smoother final end drive to the gearbox and final drives.
The problem of judder can arrise when there is a fault in the duel mass flywheel springs not dampening the compression stroke pluse from the engine. This will then typically snatch at the second part of the flywheel causing judder. If you want to know more Type in to utube duel mass flywhells there you will see what i meen and see some faulty ones ingarages

If the engine is more fuel efficient between 2000 and 3000rpm why does the display show the fuel economy plummet as the revs rise. Keep the accelerator constant as the revs rise and see what happens to your consumption. Don't believe it.

I am hoping the engine will 'loosen up' and 'smooth out' with age. Thanks

TonyJ wrote:

Under running-in instructions it advises against labouring the engine and revving above 3000rpm
On page 19 of the handbook it advises that the engine is most fuel efficient between 2000 and 3000 rpm.
I think you will find as the engine gets some miles on it, it will pull better at lower revs than when new.