Good morning
I'm currently in the process of replacing the front wishbones on my 2007 Freelander. I've got the wishbone attached to the subframe but can't for the life of me get the ball joint to line up with the hub. Can't get the hub close enough towards the car. The end of the ball joint is in the hole but at a severe angle, so is snagged.
I'm hoping the driveshaft hasn't over extended and I've messed up the tripod inside. I took it out from the hub end and checked it and it rotated the drive shaft so it's still engaged.
Has anyone else had this problem and how did you get it sorted?
I've looked on a few threads but I couldn't find anything relating to this.
Many thanks

Sorry. I've tried various ratchet strap contraptions but no luck there.

I wonder if the CV joint on the half shaft has come out of its cup

Hi Chips
I think you're probably right. Having looked at it this evening with a clearer head than I had last night it does look like the gaiter is extended. No matter what I do, I can't get the ball joint to line up. I rotated the shaft and it turns all the way along but I can't get that half shaft CV joint to seat properly. I've read somewhere that the caps can come off and the roller bearings can come loose.
Not sure what to do. Try and strip this one down or just get a new one?

With mine I removed the half shaft a job and a half to do

I then removed the rubber boot clip, and as per Haynes, filed the small lip in the edge of the cup, The knuckle then fitted back easily, renewed the clip and put it back

Check on You Tube re the alignment of the circlip gap for removal and refitting the half shaft.

Or you could try to reset the knuckle in the cup without taking the half shaft off, again You Tube may have movies. You may be lucky I wasn't

Or purchase a new half shaft from somewhere like

https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/

Or as a long shot look for new old stock on ebay

Thanks for your response.
The car is in a garage at my work so I'll have to wait until next week to crack on.
It failed it's MoT due to the wishbone ball joints, hence why I'm mucking about with it and I was trying to get them changed within the 10 days.
I've ordered a new driveshaft. So I'll get that fitted but I'll look to refurb the old one as it was only put on a couple of years ago when I swapped the PTU.
I tried like mad the other night to get it to reseat properly but it just wouldn't go. Not helped by the fact that I'm on my own trying to hold the hub away whilst trying to get it back in!
Damn pain I've added this to the jobs but I need to get it back on the road as my ancient LR90 is getting hammered at the moment.
Cheers

ive had this a couple of times there are 3 bearings that slide into the CV cup and are a real PITA to get back in. the easiest way is to remove the large retaining clip on the cv and pull back the cv boot then you can see what your doing and lining them up to slide back in is fairly easy don't worry about roller bearings as they are sealed bearings that just fit onto the tripod end of shaft, oh and wear some rubber gloves as its a messy job

Cheers for that. Appreciated.
Will I need to replace the clip or can it be re-used? Will it need repacking with grease when putting back together?
It does seem that they are a bit of a pain for this. When I was replacing my PTU I pretty much pulled the whole thing totally apart! The boot split and everything, grease everywhere!!! So this one has only been on less than two years!
I'll have a look next week. If I do it I'll just keep the new driveshaft if ever I have an issue with it again.
Cheers

yes you may possibly need a new clip it depends how easily the old one comes off I just put a new one on and crimp it together, you probably won't need to add any grease as there will be lots of it in the cv boot etc just line the 3 bearings up and slide them in it can be a bit fiddly so someone holding the other end of the shaft is a big help

Well! Got there in the end.
Used the new drive shaft I bought as I just can't get the old one to go back together.
With the new drive shaft in place everything went back together no problem.
Made a start on the other side. Bloody lower ball joint just won't separate. Hit around it. Used a "tuning fork" splitter. Doused it in WD40! Used a long bar to prize it down. Won't budge out of the hub knuckle! Bottom of the ball joint moves inn the wishbone, it's the taper that's proper stuck.
Doused it in more penetrating oil and I'll leave it and try again tomorrow night!
Never, ever straightforward!!!!

Angry grinder required! Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Don't think grinding it will help. I'll just end up with it stuck in the hub.
It's absolutely jammed in there. Tried heat on it, banging it, wedging everything from a chisel to a pick axe head in it to try and get it to budge! It just will not shift!
Bought a scissor splitter today but it's too small. The U shape bit won't go round the ball joint taper!!!
No idea what else to do with it!

Last edited by PK1968 on 6th Mar 2025 3:44 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Well! As if by magic!!!!!
I'd tried everything again last night. Banged, prised, levered, heated up, oiled, the lot! Wouldn't budge!
I was lying there, looking at it in sheer contempt and hatred, on the verge of total and utter defeat! One last act of frustration was to hit it again with the lump hammer! Fifth or sixth whack I swore I saw it jump!!!!! Sure enough! It pulled out! 😁
So old wishbone off. New one on! It's not an easy job to do on your own with a torn shoulder, I can tell you! At one point I was lay on my back, left leg over a lever holding the wishbone down, hands on another lever prising the anti-roll bar up to lift the rubber bush. Bottom of the right foot booting the wishbone rear bush mount onto the subframe!!!!!!
Finally done though. Aching like mad today!!! 😳
Thanks to everyone for all the advice along the way. 👍

I saw with your story, so if I saw this thread a month ago, I could have told you the easiest way to replace the lower arm. Remove the driveshaft bolt, The anti-roll bar fitting at the bottom, and the lower ball joint nut. Split the ball joint taper with large splitter, ( have a set of different sizes, £45 Ebay). Difficult bit next, knock the drive shaft inwards gently until the joints lock. Spring the arm downwards, using either a four foot long steel bar, or, safer, a length of 4 x 2 with a fulcrum nailed on, pivoting under the inner end, Drill a hole and pass a bolt and two large washers through the hole in arm to lock the wood to it, then use a jack under the inner end of the 4 x2 pivoting the arm down until the ball joint is free, swing the hub away, release the jack, then unbolt the arm inner bolts, and reverse the activity. Refit the ball joint nut, pull the driveshaft back out, and tighten the nut to 100lb foot. It will not come undone as it is a stretch bolt. I have done a few like that, and you can use the same method to get the drive shaft out if needed. Land Rover often expect you to drop the subframe to do everything, but engine out, or Turbo change are most of the reasons to drop the subframe.

Feel your pain, some jobs just fight you all the way.
Had an absolute ball ache of a job changing a clutch in my son's car, had the gearbox off and on 3 times before it was right and a bottle jack punching it's way through the sump didn't help. Was in such a bad mood with it that I swore I wasn't working at cars ever again. 😤
I've since relented though. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)