Hi all,

So I've got a massive headache with my 2011 Freelander 2.

A few weeks ago while sat with the engine idle it randomly stalled itself.
I put this down to a knackered battery as it started with a jump. Replaced the battery and all was fine.

A few days later the engine had a stutter then died. Pulled over turned off and on and drove fine. It did this again while driving at 65mph.

I read the codes and P0336 crankshaft sensor came up so changed for a Bosch part. Same issue still persisted so changed for a genuine LR part.

Again same issue...

The plug felt like it went on a little too easily so I then changed the plug to the crankshaft sensor, again no luck. Changed fuel filter with no joy.

Now through all this it has been starting fine and doing school runs fine but whenever under any load wall just stutter and die.

Spoke to a auto electrician who suggested changing the cam sensor. This seemed to solve the problem, gave it a good thrashing up and down the bypass for 30min no issues.

Went to tow the caravan this weekend and as soon as I got on the bypass the stutter and stalling started again obviously with kids in the car it's a absolute nightmare.

Same code P0336 no other error codes have come up.

At a bit off a loss as to where to look next, any help greatly appreciated.

Starts first time and drives around the village fine....

Annoying fault…….never had this myself but plenty of other users have…..
Suggest you put P0336 into “Search” at top of page……….lots of good advice /posts will appear.

Good luck…. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Read some interesting opinions on forums about this. One thought that has come to me is when I swapped batteries did I get sold the wrong one?

I have never had the stop start function working for as long as I have owned the car so assumed it was a standard battery and not a AGM one.

Looks like this can cause stalling when the engine is under load.

Going to look in to this more when I'm off work, fingers crossed for a easy fix.

You seem to have covered most answers apart from the Reluctance Ring. Wrong Timing (or exceedingly Dirty Oil)

Lots of Info here

https://mechanicbase.com/trouble-code/p0336/

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0



Info found in search -----

fredastaire

Member Since: 03 Dec 2012
Location: Holbrook
Posts: 721

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Santorini Black

Crank sensor
If you go down the route of crank angle sensor replacement then do be aware that there are at least two types and that they are not interchangable either with the harness plug or a match for the reluctor ring. I've been through these problems after an engine swap. I had to fit the sensor AND the reluctor ring from the old engine to the new. There are other reports on this forum where it was the reluctor ring at fault and not the sensor.
.
The reluctor ring is a plastic disc behind the 'front' crank pulley; it has multiple magnets set in a circle with a gap of one missing, the 'dead' zone indicates to the ECU where top dead centre is.
.
Hope this helps, kind regards from Fred.
. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Had a oil change less than 1000 miles ago so shouldn't be that.

Tried the battery tonight and still stutter and stalling, strange how it's always under load going 60+mph up a incline....

It's booked in the garage next week so hopefully they come up trumps. The only thing I haven't checked is the trigger ring.

Really am at a loss as to what else it could be

I would have been very surprised if a battery change would have cured thé fault……
What DTC’s are there now… ? If just the P0336…..timing fault…..or others ?
From the fredastaire post above that Ian posted it could be thé reluctance ring………since P0336 refers to crank / cam timing………..could be other faults but should be fault codes to give an idea. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Yeah the battery was a long shot but I thought worth a try. Only code showing up is P0336, no other codes and it the only code.

Certainly points to reluctor ring / sensor problem……as per post by Fredastaire above……
I think I would replace the ring….matching the sensor…check wiring…..
Perhaps worth at same time removing top cam belt cover to check belt tension / condition…..in case it is slack…..which could put timing out enough to trigger fault code P0336……
At least it’s not much work to check….. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.