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Chrism551



Member Since: 01 Feb 2021
Location: Blackpool
Posts: 157

2012 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Santorini Black

Impressive job there, I should have fitted new bolts when I changed mine, will do when I get chance.

Post #430188 17th Feb 2023 5:10 pm
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

ransoman wrote:
Where did you get the strut spreader from? I ended up using progressively larger hex sockets but I rounded the corners off of my cheap ones so it made the job that much harder. one of these definately seems like an essential tool.


Amazon

make sure you get thisoine as it has the strengthened spreader on it


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Keenso-Suspension...&psc=1

Post #430314 21st Feb 2023 4:05 am
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ransoman



Member Since: 07 Nov 2022
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Santorini Black

Thanks., I'll get one ordered in for my next suspension job.

Post #430333 21st Feb 2023 4:50 pm
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a100ian



Member Since: 02 Oct 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 171

England 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Santorini Black

Hi, I am on doing this now myself and am facing a lot of the same troubles that you have.

Just wondering if anyone knows that the dots go to the top like in the photo? It looks like they do to me but I remember reading in Land Rover Owners International that a land rover garage but them on the wrong way up so just wanted to check.

Post #432449 13th May 2023 11:15 am
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a100ian



Member Since: 02 Oct 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 171

England 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Santorini Black

Post #432450 13th May 2023 11:15 am
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deadbeatdad



Member Since: 10 Oct 2022
Location: Scotland
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

what i did was take photographs of the old spring and the positions the ends sat in in the cups on the shocker and compare the new one to how it would sit

Post #432472 14th May 2023 11:58 am
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ransoman



Member Since: 07 Nov 2022
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Santorini Black

I replaced my Passenger side strut last night and thanks to the tip-offs on this forum, I bought a knuckle spreader tool.

In the end, this one was the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09Q6F2WCH?psc...ct_details

I wanted a brand I had heard of and didn't want a crappy chinese klmfem non-branded one and this one seemed to do the trick. The tool is very good quality and did the job perfectly.

Post #433196 8th Jun 2023 8:23 am
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Quote:
Report post
I replaced my Passenger side strut last night and thanks to the tip-offs on this forum, I bought a knuckle spreader tool.

In the end, this one was the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09Q6F2WCH?psc...ct_details


Now that's a tool worth having in your box Thumbs Up

Post #435421 2nd Sep 2023 9:10 am
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SYFL2



Member Since: 16 Jun 2012
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2617

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Oooo Matron !



Post #435423 2nd Sep 2023 10:09 am
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Swanny



Member Since: 24 Sep 2020
Location: Neo Chorio
Posts: 59

Cyprus 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Santorini Black

deadbeatdad wrote:
ha i wish, i still have the other side to do and im going to tackle that oil seal myself. Ive order an oil seal puller and a steering knuckle spreading tool.

I am getting a slight knocking noise when going over bumps from the side ive just done, im thinking its those top mounts which were a loose fit rather than a tight one like the old ones i took out



Hi.....did you discover what the knocking noise was? I have the same sound after four new shocks fitted and I read somewhere on here that the top nut that comes with aftermarket shocks is not suitable for the FL2....was this your problem? The new nuts cannot be tightened down sufficiently due to the lack of a recessed thread. If so.....were you able to replace the nuts in situ and how? My mechanic told me without pulling the shock out there is a risk of the shock piston dropping down.....I would have thought this can't happen due to the pressure in the shock? but what do I know.....any advice would be appreciated. thanks.

Post #436211 11th Oct 2023 6:18 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5243

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Arctic wrote:
Quote:
Report post
I replaced my Passenger side strut last night and thanks to the tip-offs on this forum, I bought a knuckle spreader tool.

In the end, this one was the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09Q6F2WCH?psc...ct_details


Now that's a tool worth having in your box Thumbs Up


Ive just replaced my rear shocks. If the fronts are the same then you dont need a special tool, just a m12 bolt inserted from the "wrong" side and a bit of scrap steel plate to spread the knuckle. Jules

Post #436246 11th Oct 2023 6:10 pm
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Quote:
Arctic wrote:
Quote:
Report post
I replaced my Passenger side strut last night and thanks to the tip-offs on this forum, I bought a knuckle spreader tool.

In the end, this one was the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09Q6F2WCH?psc...ct_details


Now that's a tool worth having in your box Thumbs Up


Well now i wished i had purchased that tool, because yesterday my NS spring broke

This happened to me yesterday just as i was driving onto our drive, there is a little hump to get on the drive and twang clonk just as though a spanner had dropped onto the under tray, so car up on the ramps to investigate.

It didn't take me long to find this below on the lower arm.
1

TD4 MY07 125,000 miles so not bad really it's a known fact that between November to middle of March there is more chance of your springs breaking because of the cold weather, the FL as been down a few pot holed country lanes in the last three months while going to my friends home to sort out his Freelander one, so maybe that as put extra pressure on the old springs.

Looks like it had an air line crack because the break is clean, anyways i think i may have found a good decent second hand strut shocker spring all in one which i put on until the weather gets better and warmer then change the both together.

The jobs are building up come early summer late spring, four new Calipers, discs and pads, timing belt and water pump last done in 2017 = 25,000 miles so doing because of year only not by mileage, all parts waiting for the right time.

Post #447928 18th Feb 2025 10:32 am
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Well i spent at least 3 hours today wire wheeling the threads, and using penetrating fluid then using a hugger gun on the strut bolt never even budged all the others that might need removing i got started and nipped them back up.

I will give it another try tomorrow and apply some heat and a long bar fingers crossed i can get it to move.

Post #447936 18th Feb 2025 5:08 pm
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Well today i decided to try the old method as above and got the bolt moving nicely, little at a time using heat, plus gas, long bar and a long ratchet.

You can what i was dealing with below.
1

2

3

After a while slowly got it started and the bolts was moving, so tightening and undoing bit by bit.
4

5

6

The disaster stuck and the bolts snapped.
7

8

9

Now i have the task of trying to remove the thread out of the hub Big Cry

Post #447996 21st Feb 2025 2:47 pm
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Fatal Apathy



Member Since: 28 Aug 2024
Location: Hertfordshire Highlands
Posts: 31

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Sumatra Black

Sad That must have ruined your day, Arctic...

When i changed my rear shocks, I had a "near miss" with the strut bolts. The picture below shows the difference between the 13 year old bolt I removed & a new one. The original bolt shank has rusted where exposed to the elements (the split in the knuckle). When I removed the old bolt, it stiffened up noticeably, to the point where the bolt bent slightly at the narrow corroded part. Fortunately, I was lucky & it did not shear. (I was using a breaker bar - but not as big a breaker bar as yours...). I was a lot more careful when doing the other side.



Corrosion of the bolt shank is the issue. The rust & crud gets compressed in the knuckle bolt hole - the more the bolt gets reversed out (against the flow of the thread), the tighter debris binds up & the bolt shears. Additionally, by the time it gets to this point - the bolt has backed out 10-15mm and there is a tendency to think that the danger is over...

Hope the removal of the remnants of the bolt thread goes well. Good Luck!

Post #448001 21st Feb 2025 11:03 pm
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