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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear shock absorbers
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Chrism551



Member Since: 01 Feb 2021
Location: Blackpool
Posts: 149

2012 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Santorini Black

Do the rears have to be dialled in like the fronts to give correct camber or can they only go one way. Still not changed mine as the car may be going as it has steering, braking and suspension problems and i cant decide whether to throw a pile of money at it or get a run out model. An 07 s model has little value to spend so much cash on.

Post #433473 20th Jun 2023 10:59 am
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Mark the mounted position at the top, as the top mounting holes are deliberately large, to allow the top to be adjusted to give the correct camber and castor angles. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #433484 20th Jun 2023 4:08 pm
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Walenut



Member Since: 17 Jun 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 118

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Lago Grey

Just replacing the OSR shock/suspension strut. Needs a new rubber spring insulater under the bottom of the spring.

Thought I might replace the anti vibration weight that's bolted to the strut as it's looking a bit ropy.

LR041112LR - £164 exc VAT Rolling with laughter

Post #447030 8th Jan 2025 11:00 am
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Walenut



Member Since: 17 Jun 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 118

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Lago Grey

Just another point, might help someone. The Bilstein shocks don't have a ridge around the bottom of the plastic cap that goes over the piston seal.

This means there isn't anything to hold the gaiter/boot in place. Bit annoying, I guess it will fill up with crap now and I can't see anyway of modifing it.

Post #447035 8th Jan 2025 1:59 pm
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