Does anyone know the minimum Cold Crank Amps battery for this vehicle?

If you suspect a power drain then you can see what I did to eliminate the drain on my LR2

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36819.html?highlight=loop+back

Its not hard to do.

Good luck

Paul

Marcus97 wrote:

Does anyone know the minimum Cold Crank Amps battery for this vehicle?

Is it possible the vehicle is in crash mode?

Could a dying battery in the key fob cause these issues?

The red alarm light blinks even with the key fob inserted.

Check your fusable link near battery +, its directly connected to starter
do Continuity test, put probe near end of + cable and 2nd probe to end of fuse where bolt attaches to battery.



I went yesterday to look my project car and had nice cristmas tree lights on dashboard but no faults, and friend pushed this fuse downwards and it starts to Crank.

Now going to find right parts and try to build DIY 150a fuse harness.

Click image to enlarge

What you need is a mega fuse kit, something like this.

Old fuse was nearly broken inside midle, see picture.



And here is new

j00ppis wrote:

Check your fusable link near battery +, its directly connected to starter
do Continuity test, put probe near end of + cable and 2nd probe to end of fuse where bolt attaches to battery.



I went yesterday to look my project car and had nice cristmas tree lights on dashboard but no faults, and friend pushed this fuse downwards and it starts to Crank.

Now going to find right parts and try to build DIY 150a fuse harness.

Click image to enlarge

The car's at a mechanic right now, who says that the first step in the procedure for figuring this out is to reprogram the keys (he seems to think the vehicle is immobilized). Does that make any sense?

p_gill wrote:

Very good comments from everyone here on FREEL2.

If you get the Transmission into Neutral then you have satisfied all of the Low Power requirement for starting. Any failure at this point is very likely due to a high power component. (Starter relay Fuse, Starter relay, Starter Solenoid)

Paul

Quote:

Paul, can you confirm that it's impossible for my problem to be related to the key fob if I can indeed shift from Park to Neutral?

Likewise, neither "crash mode" nor an issue with the vehicle being immobilized are possible given the fact I can shift from P to N

That is my understanding.

If you can get to Neutral then the problem is with the Power Side of the starting circuit.

Disclaimer:
* I am an owner of a LR2 not a Technician that works on multiple LR2's.
* I don't have any specialized training from LAND ROVER.
* And I have never worked for LAND ROVER.

Note: the starter Solenoid has to move and your comments about freezing make me wonder if you are building up ICE inside you starter.

When you drive your LR2.............how far do you go???

Ignore the draining oil from the PTU.

Click image to enlarge

The Starter is very low in the engine bay.

But if you drive far enough then any water should be turned liquid and then to vapor from the heat of the engine and the exhaust.

Good luck

Paul