Heck no idea what went wrong with the pics I usually manage to post okay with only one of each

Getting all mixed up I thought the gas circulation pipe had to be removed, luckily no.

The fuel filter at the front is vulnerable to getting burst in a hard front impact, which could allow fuel to spill onto burning wiring from the alternator, so it's protected by that heavy duty casing.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

It all looks a bit over the top at the front surrounding the fuel filter. Got the filter front cover off fine looks like I can carry on without actually needing it to be removed so no need to cut tiewrap that is on bottonm of it. Then we have the filter holder itself that is not too awkward but why are 4 bolts needed? no idea. And as for the aluminium casting that goes between the block and the filter holder
who the hell designed that. Spent most of today getting 3 of the 4 bolts out, in between snow showers. As noted the 4th looks a right sod. I can see it being refitted with only 3 bolts going back. Why were bigger bolts not used as I think 4 x 13mm bolts is not sufficient
First thing on tommorows job list is finding the 1/4 in drive extension that disappeared into the depths yesterday.

Now it has warmed up and is neither snowing nor raining back on the job. Attempting to get the 4th bolt out of the rear fuel filter shield. Failing miserably. Looking at the shield though there is a pipe in the way of I think easy access to it. Can I disconnect this a pipe? It is just attached with a hose spring clip to some can.
The pipe is shown in the attached photo by the arrow. The can arrangement it goes into is numbered 2213692

Finally got it off. Now trying to get bottom right, nearest battery, manifold bolt out all otherv 6 loose and free. Think it is sits under far right inlet pipe but have an annoying bit of metal in the way. Still cannot find where my 1/4in extension bar and 8mm socket have ended up. Cannot find in engine bay even took undershield off no sign of it.

What a bloody performance. Manifold now off and plugs out. At bleast the glowplugs came out ok. Now deciding should I remove the swirl flaps or not.

Last edited by Bogart on 26th Nov 2024 11:04 am. Edited 1 time in total

I think a lot people just use a later secondhand manifold that dosent have flaps. Jules

Yes does seem a common solution. I have made the decision to leave them in but to make it so they cannot close. Having just spent an hour cleaning it up it looks in good condition, none of the flaps broken. As the system defaults to open courtesy of the spring in the end gubbins all I intend doing is making sure no vacuum reaches the end gubbins. To achieve this one way is to leave everything connect as previously just disconnect the plug in the actuator, apparently this does not throw any faults up. Or I can take off all the vacuum setup and blank off the opening shown in pic 1 using the plug shown in pic 3 marked A Ignore pic 2 as I may just cut the pipe there to make it look a tad neater.
How does that sound?

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