Our 2012 FL2 has started to make a drumming on the rear, it sounds like the Haldex (Bell Engineering diagnostics and a conversation with the team there). We are simply too far to be able to take her into her the Haldex done as we are in the far north of Scotland. They have suggested that we take out the fuse and run her 2wd and put the fuse back in when we need the 4wd.
Removal of the fuse flashes up warnings about special modes and traction controls but I wanted to check that it is safe to drive her without the fuse in. We don't tow with her but she does do longer drives around Scotland.
If the fuse is out, how does that effect traction and also the prop/rear diff?

Our plan is to get the haldex serviced at the garage and see if that helps, I doubt it will but its worth a go.

Thank you for any advice given.

If you remove the fuse you have got a 2WD Freelander 2. The car runs normally as a 2WD above about 15 mph unless it decides (or you tell it) that it needs AWD, so what you lose by taking out the fuse is AWD at low speed. As well as the warnings you’ll find that you can easily wheel spin when pulling out of junctions and the stability control will be lost so even cornering can be affected if you are a spirited driver.

Do I see if any of the breakers have one a fl2 with a recently serviced haldex in?

Gizz if you get 1 from a breakers you can service it your self as the oil would have drained out when they removed it.a drumming noise is more than likely front or rear diff / wheel bearing or tyres . 2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

A wee update:
She was in for a haldex and diff service with our amazing mechanic. He said that she had mud like oil in both so fully changed over. New service kit for haldex and she's stopped making the noise. Tonight we are going to take her out longer and just make sure but so far neither husband or mechanic can get that noise back from her. Best £160 and 2.5hours, I've spent so far so fingers crossed for tonight. We didn't drive while awaiting this so thankfully for family for letting us borrow SUVs to get to the house. This meant we didn't pull the fuse (bar the 6 miles to the garage) but also didn't really move her but after 6 weeks parked up she started and drove fine.
I cant thank you enough for your help.

Stop at a junction and give it some beans as you pull away left or right makes no difference if there is no scrabbling you’re winner.

Mel.

We needed up running her right through her programmes, also ended up off road with her. She's back to herself! 😃

Nice one.

 2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

The JLR schedule for changing the driveline lubricants is woefully inadequate and in my opinion is simply a method to reduce servicing costs during the warranty period with no regard to the long term viability of the FL2.

Your car with love you if you change the lubes more frequently. Jules

Just to add to the discussion - I took the fuse out of mine about a month ago (it won't turn the Haldex off otherwise, still to work out why). As mentioned above, it throws up warnings when you first start it. It also keeps the traction control light on but, otherwise, is just fine. What has surprised me, though, is that the vehicle is noticeably spritelier and using around 8% less fuel, even though all the same components are still rotating. It could be that whatever is causing my fault is also making the computer tap the brakes, of course. Still, interesting.

In the meanwhile, I have hooked up a switch, wired from the fusebox with an equivalent in-line fuse. If I need four wheel drive, I turn off the engine, hit the switch and then start the engine. All the warnings go away and everything works almost as normal, bar it keeping the Haldex turned on and graunching a back brake. I love a good bodge!

What may not be obvious if you only drive on sealed roads is that there is no traction control at all with the fuse pulled. I live on a fairly rough gravel road. Coming back up the hill, the front scrabbles a bit and torque steers noticeably. It shows just how much the computer does. I prefer the computer off - it gives WAY more feel, which makes the experience much nicer.

@Deep 7

Sounds like your haldex needs a proper service.
When its powered (fuse in place) it connects to the rear diff at low speed and when starting off. It should disengage very shortly after starting off but if it doesnt it will drive the rear diff unnecessarily and cause wear to rear tyres (often causes the rear tyres to skip on slow tight turns) which in turn uses more fuel.

Removing the fuse stops the haldex powering up in the first place - reverting to FWD only which gives lots of wheel spin when starting off briskly. Jules

And because you’ve turned off the Haldex you’ve also disabled all the systems that automatically use it such as directional stability control which uses a combination of the Haldex and ABS when you are beginning to lose the rear end in a corner.