That's useful information, Jules. I was wondering if one has mount and unmount the USB stick like happens with Apple's software, to make it recognise that the USB is there. There are more than one USB protocol as well for sockets, 1.1, 1.2, 3.1, 3.2, and 4 I think They make it all so easy for the consumer. USB 1 only passes five amp charging, so USB3, with the blue plastic separator is higher, and faster data transfer.

All working again now.

Removed the old USB with the copper wire trick.

Soldering in the new USB was a bit tricky as my Weller soldering gun is a bt clumsy for this sort of thing.











Anyone recommend a not too expensive soldering iron for circuit boards ?

What flux is best for circuit boards ? Jules

Last edited by jules on 8th Nov 2024 7:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hi, Jules. I used to use, like many people, a Henly Solon 15watt iron many years ago, sadly now obsolete. A useful tip for circuit boards is to cut each tag on the components one wants to remove on the component with thin wire cutters. It is then easier to get the remaining tag out, one by one, using a solder sucker to help. It also stops over-heating the copper tracks. For repair work one needs a 15 to 25 watt iron, Tool station or Screw fix, even Amazon. Solder on boards is a special silver based lead free low temperature type, melted on by hot air. I did training courses when I worked on Trans-Pacific Telephone Undersea Cables, for Internet relays. Use the right resin flux, not plumbing solder or flux, its too abrasive, and clean off with Isopropil solution afterwards. An Internet repair specialist, Louis Rossman on you tube has many repair videos on the tricks one needs to do the repairs. hope that helps, including good light, and steady hands. p.s, the long tag next to the black plastic component, will fail first, its a dry joint, I believe.

Thanks Jagracer.

Sadly my friend who would have done this job for me died a few months ago.

This is probably a one-off for me so I didnt want to invest heavily.

I did clean it all thoroughly with IPA after the old USB was removed ( I cleaned up the old solder with de-soldering braid) and at the end.

The long tags (part of the outer case) just hold the component to the board as far as I can see. The 4 USB terminals are in a line in the centre - they came out better.

In retrospect my flux is not the right sort and I should have done some more research beforehand.

Oh well - it works. Jules

Just to reiterate
AFAIK the FL2 system can only read FAT32 formatted which limits a USB ram stick to 32MB.

Apparently that limit was entirely arbitary and in Windows 11 Microsoft have raised the FAT32 limit to 2TB

https://www.theverge.com/2024/8/16/2422163...windows-11 Jules

Jagracer wrote:

Hi, Jules. I used to use, like many people, a Henly Solon 15watt iron many years ago, sadly now obsolete. A useful tip for circuit boards is to cut each tag on the components one wants to remove on the component with thin wire cutters. It is then easier to get the remaining tag out, one by one, using a solder sucker to help. It also stops over-heating the copper tracks. For repair work one needs a 15 to 25 watt iron, Tool station or Screw fix, even Amazon. Solder on boards is a special silver based lead free low temperature type, melted on by hot air. I did training courses when I worked on Trans-Pacific Telephone Undersea Cables, for Internet relays. Use the right resin flux, not plumbing solder or flux, its too abrasive, and clean off with Isopropil solution afterwards. An Internet repair specialist, Louis Rossman on you tube has many repair videos on the tricks one needs to do the repairs. hope that helps, including good light, and steady hands. p.s, the long tag next to the black plastic component, will fail first, its a dry joint, I believe.