It’s all in the wrapping and labelling. So much extra work to add a sticker with a Land Rover part number!
Got to be worth an arm and a leg!!!!!!

Bogart wrote:

Have since measure the output of the relay to ground and is reading 4k ohms. Some what high for 4 supposed 1 ohm resistors in papallel!

Both on order. Not holding out much hope it is a relay fault that would be too easy. Not touching glowp[lugs until new relay fitted.

If you change the glow plugs, do them all. Its a pig of a job with the engine in. One has to remove the Inlet Manifold, fuel filter, possibly Power Steering Pump, wiring Loom along the front connects, Mauve Wires on 2008 year. The front radiators are in the way too. Put a bigger battery in for the winter, its easier.

Relay not at fault so glowplugs next, obviously while I am at it will do all four. Not sure why you are mentioning a new battery.

The battery voltage is a contentious issue on FL2's. My daughters 2009 model was running on a fairly new No.72 battery, and showed a glow plug fault on starting, and 11.2 volts. I replaced with a fully charged 100e battery, and up went starting voltage to 12.7 volts, and no glow plug faults. It was chugging over to start on the lower 650 amp, against the 800 amp battery. My 2013 XS draws more amperage on start up, so its struggling a bit now the weather is colder on the 100E battery. I have seen many later cars with an 09/100 bigger battery fitted, with the front of the battery box removed, as it is 325mm long.

Yes I know FL2 are a battery prone item. I did check that and seems okay, battery is only 6 mths old anyway voltage before start is about 12.3v 12.4v

Too low. I find that I have to take out the battery and put it on a refreshing charger for the weekend every few months to achieve 12.9 volts. Calcium batteries do not go as high as a good Lead Acid battery, which charged to 13.2 volts. I find it useful to read cranking voltage to find out if the battery is weak. 9 volts or lower causes a glitch on the computer pre-start routine, I find. Its a Landrover thing, they all seem to have that starting feature. Check your Alternator clutch is sound, that will cause under charging when it fails.

Im often give it a boost charge every so often. When running charging voltage is 14v plus.

Charging voltage is at the bottom end, but Ok. The reason I said cranking voltage is that an apparent good battery can, under load, give a fairly low cranking voltage when drawing, perhaps four hundred amps, which can include the starter motor drain, lights, air conditioning, and a high power HiFi one forgot to turn off. Add to that, low temperatures lower battery capacity, further straining an apparently good battery. This is when the finally give up, regardless of age, I have found. A battery also has a shelf life, and can appear good when new, was manufactured, perhaps five years ago, and chemical deterioration has weakened the Plates matrix, only becoming apparent when it prematurely fails, usually when one needs it most. It is an interesting, much talked about subject these days about battery life in Electric Cars. The only long term reliable one I have heard is an Iron Cathode Battery which has lasted over a hundred years, and a Nuclear Battery in Voyager One, which has just expired at forty six years. I am not an expert, but I do have a Bsc (hons) covering Environmental Politics, so Battery longevity does come into play with long term recycling, manufacture, and pollution aspects.

No arguements with any of that. There is the member in Australia who I believe has at least one other battery in the boot if not two.