I have replaced all my struts last year and now i replaced the two front lower control arms.
After disconnecting all the usual stuff like the steering rod and stabiliser link.
Loosing the driveshaft bolt I removed the lower arm by using a 4 foot steel bar to lower the control arm after loosing the ball joint.

So far no problems.
But when fitting the two control arms I did the same with the crow bar trick to force the balljoint low enough so it would go in the hole in the lower end of the strut/hub thing

However i noticed oil dripping from the rear hinge/bush type rubber from the new control arm. So i complained at the garage i got the part from (I ordered Britpart but he gave me Moog which according to him is the samen factory)

They supplied me with a new Moog control arm. I installed it today and got the same oil dripping from the rear hinge bush/hinge (sorry I am Dutch and don't know the correct name).

Is this me doing it wrong or is it the low quality aftermarket part? The right side never had a leak and the left side now has had two.

Jaap
The Netherlands FL2 TD4 HSE 2007 230.000 km
Subaru Outback 2.5 (had it for 20 years) 1996 450.000 km

I've done that job, but can't work out where any oil would be coming from. Can you upload a photo for us? I don't recall any fluid lubricants in that area.

I've used Moog components before with no problems. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

This the place where the new one leaks. They are filled with oil. Don’t know why. FL2 TD4 HSE 2007 230.000 km
Subaru Outback 2.5 (had it for 20 years) 1996 450.000 km

Filled with oil? It may be some lubricant, that's a solid bushing, the arm is able to slide in and out of it. Fit it up, it'll be fine.

Cheers. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

The larger bush is actually a hydra bush. It contains oil and some valves.

I managed to replace the new leaking control arm by first inserting the front vertical bush. Then the ball joint. So only stress on the front bush. After that I used a jack under the rear hydra bush to get it aligned. Works perfect.

The Land Rover manual states you need a special large c-clamp to compress the strut…. FL2 TD4 HSE 2007 230.000 km
Subaru Outback 2.5 (had it for 20 years) 1996 450.000 km

I have just swapped an engine in a 2008 FL2. Splitting the bottom swivel ball joint was a pain as they had not been apart for years. One side came out with a struggle, and I have the correct splitter. The off-side would not move, so I removed the whole hub off of the strutt, and I will have to cut the ball joint off with a nine inch disc cutter. I will fit a complete lower arm, as the original looks like it has been straightened in the past!. Getting the bottom balljoint apart is easier if one takes the whole hub off with the lower arm. I have a six foot fence post digging tool as a lever, but it needs two people really. Unbolt the half shaft and carefully tap it inwards to help. I have a small machine shop to do the repair work, and a ten ton press. The rear bush on the arm has a hydraulic damper in it, but many cheap replacements do not.

I'm 'disappointed' to put it mildly, that my car has just failed the MOT for having too much play in the n/s lower suspension ball joint and a deteriorated dust boot.

Given an advisory on my 2021 MOT that the dust boot was cracked (had been OK for ten years), I had the the whole arm and ball joint replaced with an OEM from John Craddock in Autumn 22 and it's this ball joint that is now having to be replaced after two years.

WTF? Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS

Welcome to modern replacement parts. I used to Life aircraft spares, and the shelf life, not user life, of most rubber products is seven years on the shelf. That is, in a temperature controlled environment of twenty degrees centigrade, low humidity, no other chemical fumes, or metal contact, and in the dark, out of UV light. So date of manufacture, and originality does not control how long the item has been left somewhere. Remember that many spare parts for cars etc., has been stored in containers, often at sea anywhere globally, in a salt environment, or sweating in the tropics waiting for a canal crossing. It might be ten or more years old. We used to have replace rubber items, that, if in store with a shelf life of less than two years, unless it was a military job, and at war. My local specialist says that two to three years life for a ball joint is now common. One can replace the ball joint by drilling out the rivets and bolting a new one in place. Garage time costs mean replacing the arm is cost effective, as it takes up to three hours to do a proper job. I dowel the joints to stop movement if one hits a curb. So there is your answer on modern motoring.

Thanks for the reply. Sure enough, it's not covered after 12 months. Looking now for a decent, affordable replacement. Any suggestions welcome. Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS

Meyle do HD bottom arms with bolt on ball joints.

If and when I need mine doing, this is the route I shall go...

That's worth noting, thanks.

I've been impressed with the garage that carried out the MOT (who I don't usually use for anything else).

They're getting a complete arm for me, made by Delphi (?) and it has a 3 year guarantee which the garage will deal with if I get a problem in that time - and it's only £10 dearer than the Moog one which failed this time and is still on Craddock's page. Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS

The Delphi ones are OK for three to four years, then the boot degrades, see my above explanation as to why. I have just had a Landrover one fitted to my 2013 XS, so will see how it goes, £180 each.

Interesting you're getting a genuine LR for under half price. That's worth the extra if it's definitely better quality.

In future, I think I'll go with the Meyle one that NeilTD4 recommended, so the ball joint can be replaced (about £20). Also I see the Meyle has a 3 year guarantee.

However, I asked the garage to source the arm and as there's only a couple of days to go to the job, I'll stay with it rather than mess them about. It's going to cost me £280, which includes tracking the front wheels, labour and VAT . Freelander 2 2010 [MY2011] FA 2.2 TD4 XS

My local specialist only fits genuine parts, unless I supply him with them if I can get a better deal. I normally use Rimmers, LRParts, or Maltings 4x4. Paddock are not so competive now, and Craddock is Ok if you phone first to check that the parts are correct. They can be very helpful. Just my experiences over time, in no way criticism, they all have business to run, and some parts are getting scarce.

Advanced Factors do the Meyle ones for £104.11

They do quite a range of brands / prices...