thanks....I know theres someone breaking a car just up the road, I'll see if I can get the erg before I go much further....I'm hoping its a split pipe.....is there a way to see if a used erg is any good? also is it alright to drive without the sump guard on?

While I’ve heard of people driving an FL2 without the sump guard I’m pretty sure that it’s part of the stiffening for the front of the car, hence the number of bolts that hold it in place and the moulding.

Glad you found the leak area, now for the "fun part," fixing it. As Jules says its a very crampted area, so feeler gauge thin fingers needed. Chris on website, LR Time, gives a description and demonstration of pressure testing one on a Discovery 3. I would suggest you get hold of some coloured food dye, and mix it with water, and, after draining the anti-freeze, use it to follow the trail. There are you tube tutorials to change the cooler in situ, but its tight. I had the engine out to do one. Its not a huge job to lower the sub-frame for better access, My local man does it to access most repairs. Its a very hot area in use, so look at the hoses first. It's also very close to the head gasket, which is a long job, if it is leaking. I would expect your donor source to work, so just swap the cooler and EGR valve assembly over. You might find removing the exhaust manifold and turbo need to come off to aid access. Remove the bottom under sump pipes, exhaust pipes, and catalysts It is of course, your choice, as it is your car. The bottom tray will not affect the working, but keep it on if you go off-road to protect the sump, and gearbox. Good luck.

BossBob wrote:

While I’ve heard of people driving an FL2 without the sump guard I’m pretty sure that it’s part of the stiffening for the front of the car, hence the number of bolts that hold it in place and the moulding.

Its not an MOT failure though. Its often missing after a service in ones local garage.