Thanks for the advice. Might get this changed. It’s not registering any DTC’s but could be faulty.
So this is the camshaft sensor, not the crankshaft sensor?

Yes  2007 TD4 XS The work horse that earns its up keep
2013 SD4 HSE The posh one for towing the caravan
1973 Triumph Stag I bought in 2009 and restored.

Perfect. Do you know where it is located?

Page 786 of the 2006 - 2010 manual available on this forum. Page 1250 shows how to remove it. I don't know if these pages are correct for your model of car and it's manual.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

Perfect, thank you. Will give it a shot!

If you do try it, make sure to either buy a JLR sensor if you can or a decent brand as cheap brands have been known to be no good from new. Also, if you could take a few pictures along the way from removal to installation, that would be great for the knowledge of the forum and also because I could be faced with this job.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

By way of an update....Just got the car back form the garage.
They suspect poor compression is the culprit, as it is getting gradually worse over time. Now its ever start in the morning, not just cold mornings.
The coolant level has also dropped in recent weeks, so would indicate a leak in the system somewhere.
Next step is a compression test, and hope its not a gasket issue. Had the problem on and off since 50k miles (used to just be a winter problem), so its a little odd if its an issue here.

Could be carbon build up on some of the valves which is leading to your low compression.
This is something most garages miss as they are looking for a fault code to guide them.
Talking from experience. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Thanks Gasman. What valves do you mean please? Thanks

Valves in the engine I would think,I would be tempted to use an engine cleaner product but wait and see what others say.

He could also mean EGR valve.

Hi
I have used engine cleaners before, similar to the injector cleaner. Diesel Comma Magic I think it was. EGR has also come out and been cleaned.
THanks

Sorry for the late reply.
I was referring to exhaust and or inlet valves.
A small amount of carbon on a valve seat is sufficient to prevent the valve closing fully.
As the engine is compression ignition, a small compression leak would be sufficient to cause hard starting when cold.
When the engine is warm, the good cylinders would be enough to overcome the poor one and the engine would start easier. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Going back to basics
--- White Smoke on start-up used to be an indication of water in combustion area.

ie Gaskets, cracks, Warps, etc.

(Blue Smoke -- Fuel/Oil in Combustion Area -- plus valve, rings)

PS the clip sounds like a very laboured start, with the engine needing to clear it's throat before running on all cylinders. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Garage has tested the compression in each of the cylinders and it is all ok.
They believe the white smoke is coolant, which explains the recent leak.
Potentially head gasket but it had the starting issue well before the coolant started leaking.
Also the humming noise has been confirmed as a bad rear diff.