Hi Freelandeers

Firstly the obligatory and much owed thanks to all on here especially the regular posters and boffins, you have helped immeasurably before even reading this post!

I have a 2009 td4 HSE auto with about 165k on the clock.

About 3 months ago I was driving home towing an empty trailer when I experienced power loss and low revs even with accelerator fully depressed, etc. From reading here and taking it to my usual mechanic, what turned out to be classic symptoms of a broken turbo. So turbo was replaced with a new aftermarket option.

Mechanic said after replacing turbo all seemed well, so picked up the car and drove off to go camping with the family. Within 30 min of leaving the mechanic symptoms were returning, with very intermittent instances of normal acceleration/ turbo boosting. I alerted the mechanic ASAP but as it was a Friday, decided to limp to the campsite (only an hour from home) and take it back in on Monday.

Come Sunday when it's time to leave the campsite, the car wont start. Sounds like a flat battery, as in accessories all light up but nothing cranks or turns over when the start/stop button is pressed. Helpful folks at the campground assist with jumps from other batteries as well as jumper packs. It now seems to crank, start, then cut out. Not a like a stall, but a cut off like it's being stopped by the car. RACQ guy comes out and finds the same, and says battery looks fine (battery is a Century just over 16 months old at ths point). One point to note here: when I put the key fob in at first (as in it is out of the dock then inserted) it will crank, fire and start, then stop after approx 1 second. If I leave the key fob in after that (as in don't fully remove it before trying again) it will just crank and not fire.

Tow it back to the mechanic (not a LR specialist, knows the Ford engine well but unsure as to their auto elec's knowledge og FL2's, likely minimal), and there it has been since. THey have spent 10+ paid hours fault finding, and at first identified that throttle body gears were stripped and MAP sensor needed replacing. These were done, and the problem has persisted. They are saying they are still getting throttle body error codes, but have fully checked other sensors and no errors anywhere else. I asked them for a summary of what they had spent the time on and they sent the following:

- Locate & repair the damaged wiring to the intake manifold

- Diagnose faulty throttle body

- Replace throttle body- Customer supplied / Still no start (Carried out throttle body relearn)

- Scan for codes (summary of codes found is listed below)

P02E0-13- Diesel intake airflow control open circuit
P02E9-00-Diesel intake airflow position sensor circuit high
P02E9- Throttle valve position sensor component stuck closed

- Have located all earth straps -cleaned & tested for resistance and voltage drop.

- Replaced one earth to body

- Carried out a resistance test on the canbus network. Cans high was fine -Cans low was 3.484k

- Have disconnected each module one by one and carried out the same cans low test with no change. We believe this resistance is coming from the harness.

- The vehicle starts then stops

– It stops on its own by cutting the injector pulse.

I have told them to stop any further work as it feel like they are starting to run out of ideas and still want to charge me to come up with new ones. They have offered to source a LR specific scan tool and are talking about suspecting the BCM needs replacing, but from what I have read on here that seems unlikely, expensive and makes me suspect they are unsure about how to proceed.

What I am hoping is that someone more knowledgeable here can point me towards some possible causes? I am at the point where it will be towed to the local independent LR specialist for hopefully accurate diagnosis if noone on here can point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice /questions /anecdotes.

If you are still getting Throttle Body errors, then surely if it is closed (or closing) that would give your not-starting/shut down problems.
Was it a new item fitted?

Also, There is quite a good description of the various comms networking (CAN and others) starting at page 1962 of the Repair Manual. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Hi Ian thanks for the reply

Yes it is a new part (with aluminium gears instead of plastic like the LR part!) which I suppose could be at fault but I'm dubious. Before replacing it I asked the mechanic about the old one and he said it had been stuck open, which to my understanding would not prevent starting.

Unless when the old throttle body was in, it was a wiring issue or similar, and now that has been fixed and the new throttle body is stuck closed? Seems like a long shot...?

Also, is there a way to see the service manual? Or is it something the mechanic would need to track down?

Also, is there a way to see the service manual? Or is it something the mechanic would need to track down?

Repair Manual and Wiring Diagrams in this thread (Service Manual link to DropBox)
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Hi Ian thanks that will come in handy I'm sure.

Update:

Mechanics borrowed a scope tool and returned the following images for:

1. Cam angle sensor
2. CAN bus high and low
3. Crank angle sensor

And the following explanation:

"Can bus high and low is communicating correctly with all modules, however, the signal from the crank angle and cam angle is not working correctly from our scope test this morning. We also have a fault code present for the new throttle valve (P02E9) & (P02E5).

The Cam and Crank sensors have the 5v supply and a known good earth at the sensors. The return signal to the ECM is also working correctly.

The one item unable to be checked without a factory Land Rover scan tool is the security system, however from our basic checks this appears to be ok as the security light is turning off during the key on / start sequence."

Regarding the throttle body, the mechanic told me that he has heard and felt the flap opening and closing when he sprayed fuel in to the engine directly to hear it run for a minute or two, which he described as "running perfectly". So pretty sure it's working and from what I understand shouldn't prevent the engine running even if it is stuck open.

Anyone got any suggestions where to next?

Thanks in advance

Hi guys, very interesting post. I believe I’ve got exactly the same problem you have and described. I would be very interested to know how you progressed is the car now running? Would appreciate any help thanks.