After 2 days of action of the wd40 oil, I unscrewed the spark plugs without any problems. They were all burnt. I replaced them with some new NGK ones.Then I packed everything back up. The car is running fine so far, I'm curious if the sudden loss of power still occurs. Anyway the intake/spark plug part is solved. I'll come back with news if there will be. The good ones!

Can anyone confirm the start of VIN numbers that indicate no swirl flaps?

I got this off LRCAT - seems to indicate no swirl flaps from VIN BH000001.
Can someone else confirm this info please.

My car is MY11 and the local parts manager only lists one manifold LR019987

Click image to enlarge

You can tell simply by looking at the inlet manifold. If it has the vacuum actuator on the left of the manifold, it has swirl flaps. If the manifold has the mounting position without the vacuum actuator fitted, then no swirl flaps are in there. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

That's correct. No swirl flaps to worry about.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

As promised I'll be back with feedback. The elimination of swirl flaps led to an increase in extra-urban consumption by about 1 liter/100km. Interestingly, this increase occurred before the intake manifold was removed most likely when the throttle arm broke and the throttles were spinning freely in the intake air stream. I can conclude that I was very lucky to have removed the manifold and removed the valvetrain before the broken valve stem wear was sucked into that cylinder and destroyed it. Now I need a resoft to get the diesel consumption back to normal. What do you think about chip boxes, are they a solution or just a scam? https://www.ebay.co.uk/urw/SAAB-Digital-Di...&pgn=2

If anything on the air path has been replaced, then an air path calibration is needed to optimise the system.

Anything that plugs into the OBD2 port that claims to improve economy is a scam. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Planning to change my intake manifold to non flirflap one, Do you need to blank something on vacuum pump side / hoses which near oil fill cap or something? What would be easiest method if nessessary, and where.

Offcourse going to blank allso EGR which comes to throtle body, but i found one video where one guy talks about blanking vacuum actuator / hose? and this confuses alot.

You need to remove the actuator hose and seal the spigot where it is mounted on the actuator control as seen in the photo.

Quote:

j00ppis wrote:

Planning to change my intake manifold to non flirflap one, Do you need to blank something on vacuum pump side / hoses which near oil fill cap or something? What would be easiest method if nessessary, and where.

Offcourse going to blank allso EGR which comes to throtle body, but i found one video where one guy talks about blanking vacuum actuator / hose? and this confuses alot.

Hi j00ppis.
If you get a late manifold which is (swirl flap less) anyway nowt to do.
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As opposed to one with swirl flaps.
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turn it over.
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Pull out the rod.
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you might be lucky and the rod will come free.
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The flaps now need to be removed broken out of the manifold, if i could have gotten a swirl free manifold at the time i would have gone down that road.
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again you maybe lucky and the flaps come out whole.
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it still remains the inside of the manifold will be gunked up and need cleaning out.
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I found the last flap was detached anyways.
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Jet washed out and left to dry for days, so if you intend to do the one off the car then be prepared to not have use of the car for at least 3 days.
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j00ppis wrote:

Planning to change my intake manifold to non flirflap one, Do you need to blank something on vacuum pump side / hoses which near oil fill cap or something? What would be easiest method if nessessary, and where.

Offcourse going to blank allso EGR which comes to throtle body, but i found one video where one guy talks about blanking vacuum actuator / hose? and this confuses alot.

Ive got 2007 model, so if im right what i have readed on forums, no need to EGR Map and no DTC should come when blanking egr whit plate between 2007-2010 models?

Arctic and galen: Thank you for pictures.

So it would be just straight swap to non flirflap one and then blank the hose which was on picture. hose which is on picture, just needs to pull off from actuator command? and put something same kind of hose back and clog it

anyway about the hose, is it possible to remove it whit our damaging actuator command?

A 2007 just needs the blanking plates, as EGR monitoring wasn't mandatory until 2010. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

The upside of the early 2007 model , but try not to read too much about exhaust camshaft failures if you want to sleep at night. That or swap the camshaft for the newer steel model.

[quote="FL2Voodoo"]No by disconnecting the vac pipe they will stay closed. It's the differential in vac pressure that opens them. Plus they would still be fitted in place and the problem is the fixing screws let go and it's bye bye swirl flap I will log into the BMW forum and find some pics so you can see the state they can get in.[

Bit late to the show with this but the flaps default to open NOT closed. The spring inside the actuator assembly, left hand end of manifold looking from front, keeps them open until the vacuum overcomes the spring and they can close to some degree or fully depending on vacuum allowed through.