After getting through the list of jobs on my sons FR2 I decided it was time to investigate an oil leak that over the last month or so had become a lot worse it was now dripping from the under tray when parked up anyway after much investigation the oil appeared to becoming from the engine block around the upper sump area but behind the PTU So I decided to dig a little deeper, So after removing the intercooler pipe and o/s driveshaft and carrier I could see the turbo oil feed pipe and turbo coolant pipe was saturated in oil but just couldn't see exactly where from due to the PTU being in the way, Many cups of tea later I decided to take the bull by the horns and get the PTU out, not to bad of a job but working on the floor on your own makes it a bit of a challenge, So PTU removed I could see exactly where the leak was coming from it was the Turbo oil feed pipe Flexi hose, it had also saturated the turbo coolant pipe rubber section causing it to swell up to double its normal size, These two pipes sit right next to each other and supply oil and water to the Turbo, Now comes the fun new turbo oil feed pipe ordered and new length of rubber pipe and clips sourced for the the coolant pipe repair so while waiting for the new oil feed pipe I thought I may as well remove the old one OMG the banjo bolt connecting the pipe to Turbo is right on the top of the Turbo and covered with a heat shied you can't even see it let alone remove it, many cups of Coffee later (The tea wasn't working I had to have coffee at this stage ) I realised that to even get anywhere near it the common rail diesel system had to be removed and also the plastic PCV cover that covers the cam chains and cams, so everything is removed and the garage has bits of freelander all over the floor and i still can't get to the banjo bolt due to the exhaust manifold heat shied covering the top of the turbo there was no way I was taking the heat shield of the 10mm bolts holding it on were rusted solid plus I would have also have to remove the sensor that's rusted solid in the top of the manifold, access to the banjo bolt is about 1 inch from the edge of the heat shield so I took ny snips and cut the heat shield about 4 inches apart and with a pair of grips just bent the heat shield up very slightly but enough to let me see the banjo bolt, its a hex bolt so I needed to use a long hex ball socket to get it undone , banjo bolt is now undone and removed and pipe is also disconnected from the engine block underneath, I can only describe the removal of the pipe as a Chinese puzzle it took an hour to work out how to get it out, finally got it out and you could see the flexi part had failed the hose inside it was split, fitting the new pipe was even worse and don't forget the copper washers that have to be each side of the pipe plus getting the banjo bolt in and tightened, and I won't even begin to tell you about the rubber sealing washers that attach the pipes to the engine block it was one of the worst job ive ever done on a freelander 2 and ive done top end rebuilds wheel bearings and diff rebuilds, this was a complete nightmare from start to finish

you can see how tight it is and you have to remove the PTU to get access to the bolts in the block
Anyway some of you might find this useful if you ever need to change the oil feed pipe im sure there must be a few that are starting to leak this was on a 2012 sd4 so if you've got an oil drip in that area you now know what to look for

crikey what a job Jules

it took 3 days and a hell of a lot of patience honestly the worst Job ive had to do on a FR2