Your experience
Cheers James

Use caution.
The gearbox is on the limit in standard form, actually LR have torque limited the engine in first gear, as the lay-shaft isn't able to take full torque of the standard engine in first. The gearbox has a maximum torque rating of 400Nm, except 1st gear, where it's 380Nm. This isn't a problem for a FWD car, as the tyres break traction before the box limit is exceeded. However on an AWD, the tyres don't slip, so the box "sees" the full engine torque.
The factory TD4 is rated at 400Nm, however in the real world it's often closer to 420Nm. So the box is already over the design specifications, meaning that remapping puts it under even higher loads, which significantly shortens the box life. With care, it is possible for the box to last, but regularly oil changes are a must. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Did one on mone around 2 years ago. I didn’t do a dyno test, and since remap was done individually to my car, it is not possible for me to tell you thr exact HP I have right now. Stock was 152, after remap, the workshop estimated that current HP should be anywhere from 190 to 200. Going strong without any issues, I’ve done more than 20 000km since then.

Although I see sense in what Nodge is saying, It makes me wonder of why would my moms 2.2d manual disco sport with the same engine and the same gearbox m66 gearbox would have stock 190hp from factory. It is 100% true that 1st gear of m66 box is the weak link in the chain. I know nothing about how remapping is done, but when I got mine done, the workshop specifically asked whether there was a particular gear I would like to be a bit snappier, so maybe there are ways to work around this.

Just to throw another thing into the mix along these lines. What are people's opinions on putting a Freelander 2 on a rolling road/dyno for a before and after remap? Anything to watch out for regarding the drivetrain or the terrain response systems seeing as I'm guessing it cannot be turned off.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

They do it for the likes of the VW Golf R with its haldex 4WD system, so you just need to find someone who knows what they are doing or something might go pop I fear. Jules

The later Haldex 4 will probably take whatever you can throw at it. The Haldex 5 system on the Disco Sport is fine for the standard D180 and the D200 with up to 430Nm of torques.

The DS with the D240 engine and 500Nm does not have a Haldex as it isn't considered strong enough.

On the Freelander 2 it's the Front Transfer Unit and rear differential that are known weak points in standard tune. Bell Engineering offer a differential with larger nose bearing that can handle 25% greater loading, maybe an option. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Dean1234 wrote:

Just to throw another thing into the mix along these lines. What are people's opinions on putting a Freelander 2 on a rolling road/dyno for a before and after remap? Anything to watch out for regarding the drivetrain or the terrain response systems seeing as I'm guessing it cannot be turned off.