Moving on from above with the crankshaft sensor replacement.

The new Febi crankshaft was changed and driving is back to normal for now.

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I also put a new battery on the car has old one was 7yrs plus at least the 7yrs since i purchased the car anyways.

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Hawkeye code reading.

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The FL2 was jacked up using trolley jack after the wheel nuts had been undone slightly, always good to use an axle stand as well, I didn't because I have faith in my jack.

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Wheel off.

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Next the wheel arch liner section needs to be removed.

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This will have a couple of nuts most likely rusted, also two lower screws under the front of the bumper.

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As you can see i changed mine to rubber grommets/ washers which hold really good.

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Remove the lower bumper screws

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Next remove the nuts in my case grommets.

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The access panel is now easy to remove.

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Place this out of the way.

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You should now be able the see the crank pulley and on the left of it the crankshaft sensor.

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​The sensor plug will have three wires coming from it.

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You can see from this close up the plug is a little contaminated with oil deposits, need to find the cause.

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It might be the crack seal i will know later this month when i do the belts.

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The belt otherwise looks really for 7yrs old and 17,000 miles.

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Anyway enough digressing, the crankshaft sensor is held in place with a 10mm bolt.

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Undo this with good six sided socket.

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Remove the bolt completely.

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You can now grip the sensor plug with wiring and juggle the sensor free, quite easy.

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Turn the plug over and you will see a tang this needs to be lifted to unplug the sensor from from wiring.

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The sensor is now removed and can be replaced.

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Code on the back of mine was/is

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You can see where it bolts to the engine also the guide hole for the peg on the back of the sensor.

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I purchased three different sensors will talk about that later, decided to go with the Febi one.

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The old sensor.

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New and old side by side.

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The new one has the same part number so the old one must be Febi? anyone know that fact for sure.

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Plug the new sensor into the the wiring plug and offer it up to the car.

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Bolt the sensor back on.

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I added a bit of red rubber grease to keep out any water or contamination, hopefully it will help?

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Put the wheel arch access panel back in place, refit the wheel do the wheel nuts up 133Nm check again after about two days, start the car and go for a drive, hopefully all will be good.

I had a few jobs to do under the FL2 today checking brake lines etc and Hammerite the sub frame, while i have the lower engine under tray off i noticed that you could in fact fit the crankshaft sensor from under the car, save removing the wheel and wheel arch liner.

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Not how there is a recess for the sensor reading end to fit into.

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I've replaced the crank sensor at the side of the road, twice. The steering needs to be full right, and the splash guard is released from the rear fixing only, then it can be bent downwards out of the way. It took me about 10 minutes to do, but it's not pleasant being at the side of a busy A road, with your legs sticking into the gutter. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Quote:

Nodge68

I've replaced the crank sensor at the side of the road, twice. The steering needs to be full right, and the splash guard is released from the rear fixing only, then it can be bent downwards out of the way. It took me about 10 minutes to do, but it's not pleasant being at the side of a busy A road, with your legs sticking into the gutter.

Hi John.
Hope you are keeping well and life is treating you good, you are braver than me, but if it calls for it then yes i suppose i would give it a go you have to live dangerously sometime

I'm good, although my Freelander is kicking my butt at the moment.
The head has been damaged by a dodgy head gasket, but before I could get the head off, I had to drill out 5 of the 10 head bolts, as the E14 Torx drive broke off. Tonight, while the head is away being refaced, I thought I'd replace the fallen off brake back plate, while the wheel was off for the head job. Well one of the bolts broke off, so I started to drill it out, then the drill snagged and broke off in the bolt. So now I'm worse off than before I started.
I've got a buyer for the Freelander, but I need to get it working correctly for them. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Quote:

Nodge68

I'm good, although my Freelander is kicking my butt at the moment.
The head has been damaged by a dodgy head gasket, but before I could get the head off, I had to drill out 5 of the 10 head bolts, as the E14 Torx drive broke off. Tonight, while the head is away being refaced, I thought I'd replace the fallen off brake back plate, while the wheel was off for the head job. Well one of the bolts broke off, so I started to drill it out, then the drill snagged and broke off in the bolt. So now I'm worse off than before I started.
I've got a buyer for the Freelander, but I need to get it working correctly for them

.

The FL2 will certainly keep you on your toes that's for sure, just change my two front back plate, used Irwins tool to undo the bolts due to corrosion replace with some good six sided bolts.

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Used the smallest 8mm
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One i had to hammer on a 7mm socket to get it removed.
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Good luck with the rest, note the torx screw which was stuck and had to grind it flat, that will need drilling out soon.

Bringing the thread back up to date about crankshaft sensors, today i was going to purchase another Febi sensor from the same seller, but noted that the sensor only fits up to Chassis No.: AH999999

So therefore the question is why and did the sensor change for the 190 SD4 models? if so anyone know the correct part number or the Febi number.

Also would the sensor be the same for Auto & Manual even though i think all SD4 are Automatics

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313051670303

Interesting.
The only part number I can find for the crank position sensor is LR000681

Craddocks make no mention of chassis number limitations and claims Hella is OEM, but Island4x4 says upto AH999999 - but has nothing for later cars

Go figure  Jules