Hi All,

Timing chain on the Mrs' Polo 6R is on it's way out, so come the summer, we'll likely flip it, and she can drive my Leon to work once I've done the DMF on it (1.9TDI PD engine, lovely to drive, excellent MPG).

We live on a farm, and since my Jimny went to whatever rusty level of hell they go to, having reached the end of it's economically weldable life, I've sorely missed having a 4x4 (nearly cracked the sump on my Leon with the state of the track), and would love to get some off-roading in.

I'd love a proper green-laner, however that's not on the cards at the moment, as the car needs to be driven to work occasionally by the Mrs when we're snowed in or the lane becomes difficult to navigate, and having gone through a run down of all the various cars we'd both go for, we've settled on a FL2. On my side, because it's a capable off-roader when needed every so often (we help out with baling etc), on hers because she likes how it looks. Things like a Land cruiser, Shogun, Hilux, Rav4 were all vetoed. An L322 would be nice, but anything in our price bracket is likely a ticking time bomb of issues.

I've had a look around for various buyer's guides, however they all seem a little outdated and fragmented - is there a particular one pepole would recommend, that I've missed?

Would likely be looking for something that covers common mechanical faults to check for, rust areas to check for (rear arches by the doors seem to be missing on the ones I can find?), service items, etc.

I'd likely be looking for an auto, as there's no low-range box, and would likely also want the GS trim, as I'm allergic to any sort of outdated manufacturer satnav rubbish, so would probably swap in an android head unit, and fit a reversing cam etc.

We'd likely be aiming for something around the £3-4k mark - what year and mileage would we expect for something like this?

Not averse to doing my own work in the slightest, although if it would need a lift it's likely out of my capabilities - happy to tackle anything I can do on ramps/stands on the driveway/farmyard, although after the Jimny, I think I've had my fill of patching rust for a good long while. Not phased by diagnosing electrics (I have a degree in electronic engineering), and it looks like the wiring diagrams are readily available, which is good!

Any help or pointers would be massively appreciated

You could try this:

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/used-ca...eelander-2

And:

https://www.landrovermonthly.co.uk/article...ing-guide/

You won’t regret it, if they were still making them I’d have another without a second thought. Good luck and let us know how you get on...

SE trim is better than GS, so gets a better complement of equipment, including heated electric seats, climate control with the useful heated front screen as standard, power fold mirrors and loads of other stuff.

Rust, well that's the question. The level of rust depends on how often the vehicle has been driven on salt laden winter roads, and how well it was cleaned off in spring.
Vehicles that have been neglected in this area will show signs of corrosion, some heavy enough to hole the subframe and rear arches. The subframe can be replaced (welding a subframe is technically not allowed for an MOT), so replacement is the best option here. Rear arches need to be repaired properly if they're rusty, but this isn't that common. My arches are completely rust free.

I personally avoid changing audio systems, as the speakers on these vehicles are driven by a pretty good amplifier which can't take any form of input other than data on the factory MOST. This means powering the speakers from the HU where audio quality is massively compromised, which kinda defeats the object of the audio system.
Or you can install an aftermarket 6 channel amplifier, which would help overcome the pore sound issue, but it's a lot of work for little gain. Just my opinion of course.

£4k should see a reasonable condition SE. I'd expect to get about £4k for mine if I was planning on selling, which I'm not. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

If you get the later GS model, from about 2013 onwards you get this radio/ display. Unfortunately it is not easily upgradeable without major dash and electronic surgery. Obviously anything can be done with enough determination and effort but there is not a simple plug in solution. My trusty Garmin sat nav is still attached to the windscreen.
In general these Freelander 2s are very reliable. Rear diffs and haldex 4 wheel drive systems can cause issues as can the front ptu but like so many issues these can be solved or minimised with preventative maintenance, oil changes sooner than LR specify is key.
As you say older ones can be crusty round the rear arches, especially if the rubber trims remain in place around the arches, specially designed to collect mud and promote rust, remove them, clean and rust proof of paint as necessary.
Have heard of a few having rusty rear subframes needing replaced but this is not that common.(must get my own wax oiled this coming spring!)
Occasional door lock servos fail, intercooler hoses known to split. Inlet manifold flaps can fail requiring replacement.
Basically a Ford / Peugeot/ Citroen engine and running gear. Fairly easy to work on, parts easily available, any garage can fix them. Had mine 6 years and 99000 miles now, still very pleased with it.
Any more specific questions ask away, also have a good browse on here, most topics have probably been covered, but remember forums discuss problems and fixes and if you read any forum you'll be frightened at what can go wrong. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Freelander 2 - the most reliable Landrover ever built by Ford

Currently on our 3rd.

Rear sub-frames are getting hard to find but some use the one from the early Evoque with good results - slight geometry difference but it makes no odds apparently.

Some bespoke parts are bizarrely expensive eg glovebox damper (£120) but most mechanicals are fairly cheap as they are common to many different cars.

Few special tools required (Ive never needed any). Most things are very DIY-able. Jules

Quote:

Some bespoke parts are bizarrely expensive eg glovebox damper (£120) but most mechanicals are fairly cheap as they are common to many different cars.

Thanks all for your suggestions and words of advice!

Come the summer, I will update this thread if I end up with a successful purchase

Bobupndown wrote:

Quote:

Some bespoke parts are bizarrely expensive eg glovebox damper (£120) but most mechanicals are fairly cheap as they are common to many different cars.

Yeah, mine broke and got binned, now my glovebox doesn't have a soft opening feature, have to say it doesn't detract much from the car overall 🤔

CDFH wrote:

Thanks all for your suggestions and words of advice!

Come the summer, I will update this thread if I end up with a successful purchase

Not sure if you have already found them but all the original Brochures for each Model Year and Spec are on this Forum
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36500.html?highlight=brochures

I would also point out that it is worth studying sale adverts (and photos) for extras.
It seems that many FL2s were ordered and bought with many upgrades factory fitted. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

An update (if anyone cared, I do hate reading threads where OP says they'll come back and never do):

Yesterday I purchased and drove home a MY2010 (pre-facelift) TD4 XS in Stornoway Grey, ~118k mi, from Wyre Forest Motors (attached to Bell engineering, of diff/PTU/haldex rebuild fame).

Nice car, drives well, and seems decent all round.

Only thing is, I've come from a background of small manual cars (Polo/Leon), and pulling away with the auto box is a little more lethargic than with those, even with kick-down - I could just drop the clutch in and squeeze into traffic on a fast country lane, now I need to wait for a bigger gap - I suspect it just needs a little bit of getting used to, what with it being a bigger, heavier car.

Put it in Sports mode, that will make it quite nippy if you need to pull out quickly.

J

[quote="jules"]Freelander 2 - the most reliable Landrover ever built by Ford

Currently on our 3rd.

Rear sub-frames are getting hard to find but some use the one from the early Evoque with good results - slight geometry difference but it makes no odds apparently.

Not sure how these compare to genuine JLR one but the price is worth a try??

https://eurosubframes.com/products/new-lan...h-bushings 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

CDFH wrote:

An update (if anyone cared, I do hate reading threads where OP says they'll come back and never do):

Yesterday I purchased and drove home a MY2010 (pre-facelift) TD4 XS in Stornoway Grey, ~118k mi, from Wyre Forest Motors (attached to Bell engineering, of diff/PTU/haldex rebuild fame).

Nice car, drives well, and seems decent all round.

Only thing is, I've come from a background of small manual cars (Polo/Leon), and pulling away with the auto box is a little more lethargic than with those, even with kick-down - I could just drop the clutch in and squeeze into traffic on a fast country lane, now I need to wait for a bigger gap - I suspect it just needs a little bit of getting used to, what with it being a bigger, heavier car.

CDFH wrote:

An update (if anyone cared, I do hate reading threads where OP says they'll come back and never do):

Yesterday I purchased and drove home a MY2010 (pre-facelift) TD4 XS in Stornoway Grey, ~118k mi, from Wyre Forest Motors (attached to Bell engineering, of diff/PTU/haldex rebuild fame).

Nice car, drives well, and seems decent all round.

Only thing is, I've come from a background of small manual cars (Polo/Leon), and pulling away with the auto box is a little more lethargic than with those, even with kick-down - I could just drop the clutch in and squeeze into traffic on a fast country lane, now I need to wait for a bigger gap - I suspect it just needs a little bit of getting used to, what with it being a bigger, heavier car.