If you're getting some jerking... maybe have a read through this thread (throttle pedal) and see if any of their symptoms jump out at you - https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16502-135.html

Let us know how it goes

Thanks. I'll add it to my list. Costs about £50 for a new pedal, so won't break the bank.
Can't see any mention of boost pressure release noise in the thread, but I still keep an open mind.

Remap the EGR?

I have spent a lot of time this year trying to get to the source of the throttle hesitation problem on my Freelander 2.
I could be completely barking up the wrong tree, but my conclusion is that the EGR needs to be remapped. I don't want it to be blanked, removed or 'remapped out' completely, but I want the EGR mapping to give 'sensible' values.

It has done 50,000 miles, so I am assuming that there is no significant soot buildup causing the issue in the EGR.

This whole story is below:
When I first started looking into this problem, it was suggested that the turbo actuator was at fault - I replaced the turbo, but this never solved the problem.

Eventually, after looking at various codes from my Foxwell diagnostics, I found that the 'Commanded EGR%' went from about 20% sharply up to 60%, then back down again within about 1 second. Also, the manifold pressure value decreased sharply at the same time, indicating a drop in pressure. This corresponded to the throttle hesitation so this is why I am investigating the EGR. An example graph is attached.

So, I went looking for 'EGR remap' on the internet and found a few Youtube videos.

According to one Youtube video: 'Optimizing EGR Operation using EcuTek ECU tuning software' from MRT Performance, there are many EGR maps already at work in your engine. I don't know the details of them, but I assume that in some/all of these maps, there are values that dictate how much the EGR valve is to be opened. There may also be values to command the EGR cooler as well. Unfortunately, EcuTec is only for Honda, Subaru, Missan, Mazda and Ford, not Land Rover.

So I need to find someone who will verify that all of this is possible and alter all relevant EGR maps to provide 'sensible' EGR values i.e. stay at max 20%, rather than shoot up to 60%. This means that the EGR will still be active (and do what it should legally do) but the throttle hesitation problem should be drastically reduced, and my MPG might be better as well (see below).

The other thing that might explain why my motorway MPG is low (approx 27mpg), rather than approx 44mpg that the dashboard 'Instant MPG' displays is that the EGR is switched on for most of a long motorway journey.
Should your EGR make you burn more fuel to reduce emissions at 70mph?
Here is a conflict between lower emissions while driving at 70mph against using 20-30% more fuel. Surely at that speed it's better to use less fuel (by reducing EGR) rather than reducing emissions on a motorway at 70mph.

So, my main objectives of an EGR remap are to:
have a small EGR value when running at speed (i.e. 5% EGR when above 50mph),
have a max EGR value of about 20% at all other speeds (rather than spike at 60% causing throttle hesitation).

This means I can have the best of both worlds:
the EGR valve will be used regularly to reduce harmful emissions by a reasonable amount, and
we can save fuel by reducing the EGR values while at higher speeds.

So, if there is a EGR map which uses speed as a condition, then this should be switched off, or a very low EGR value should be used.

I'm still waiting to find out from the person who did my ECU remap, if he can also remap my EGR, but if anyone else know how to do this, then please let me know.

This is a common problem, so if someone can remap the EGR successfully and cure the throttle hesitation, there will be a LOT of people that could benefit from this.

Hello.
Thank you for letting me join the forum.

My Freelander 2 2007 105000 mile 2.2 diesel manual, has developed a hesitation at between 28 and 31 mph
regardless of the gear I am in or the revs. Once above this speed the hesitation clears.
There are no error codes on the diagnostic report.
One thing I have discovered is that if I select “ Sand “ mode, the hesitation does not happen.
Temperature makes no difference.
I would greatly appreciate any help or advice on the issue.

Remove the Haldex fuse and see if it happens again.
Ignore the temporary error.

Thanks Alex

I’ll try that and report back!

I know it's 18mths since the last post but I thought I would provide my experiences of this issue given I searched high and low for advice so hopefully this will help somebody.

I've just bought a 2012 auto (95k on the clock) with a FSH and appears looked after well. I have had the throttle hesitation just under 2000 rpm primarily when I am lightly pressing the throttle (it's a real drop and catch feel). The problem is not there if I give it some welly.

Anyhoo, I dropped some Wynns Extreme Diesel Clean in to the tank when about 25l was remaining and have run it down. The problem has noticeably reduced so I am hoping the concentration levels have given the system a good kicking and cleaned her out. Less clattering at idle after a run also.

I'm also a fan of the Liquid Moly 2 Stroke dosing as it worked a treat on my Fl1 so will let this run through, fill up tomorrow and then will start with the 2 stroke oil, every 2nd or 3rd tank.

Just my 2 bobs worth. Also whacked on the OBD when the problem was there and have no 'relevant' errors.

Hi everyone,
I would like to share how I fixed my car's hesitating problem, which occurred in warm weather (+14 C and above) at 1800-2000 rpm.
I've been looking for any information for over a year, showing my car to many mechanics, but none of them could find any error codes, thus nobody could tell what was wrong with it. Just replaced fuel filter and all possible sensors without any luck.
Eventually, they had to replace the EGR valve, which was a bit costly and labor-intensive.

However, it appears to be a complete solution for me; I've been driving my car for several months and a couple of thousands of kms without any issue.

Hope this helps someone.

It's 2014 TD4 Automatic.

Hi Icapx & anyone reading,

Just looked at your post of yesterday afternoon……I’ve had the same problem on my FL2 SD4 HLS Auto
MY2012…..for the last 5 years…..bizzare fault…only when ambient temp is above 18deg & accelerating gently around 1500/2000rpm the engine “stutters”. Like you I have looked on lots of forums for a possible answer …..lots of possibilities on freel2.com……& lots of people have spent thousands replacing parts without solving the problem. Being a retired mechanic I know from experience not to jump to conclusions, better to try & diagnose. The problem is obviously an engine management/ control issue so the EGR valve seemed a good bet to me but since it’s a bit of an involved job & the problem never has lead to a breakdown & it only occurs during warm weather I have left it well alone. My wife is more worried than me. We came back from the South of France last week & on the drive up to Oxfordshire from Folkestone it stuttered worse than ever so I may have to do a repair soon. I plugged-in my Lynx Diagnostics this morning just to check for faults but unfortunately it would not connect to car !

The Freelander has been a great car, had it from new 2012….very few problems…still drives great.
I did the cambelt etc March this year 150,000mls……no wear at all on belt, tensioner or pulleys, looked like it would have done a further 100k……… not worth the risk though. Imagine the aggro from wife….!
Going to have look at Craddock’s website to check EGR price…..
Will post if all ok………got to be done before the weather cools down or won’t know whether problem is fixed. Quite why ambiant temperature should affect EGR operation……16deg ok—>18deg not.