I’ve seen loads of posts regarding issues with the rear diff/haldex. I have an issue with mine and I would really appreciate some help in narrow down the fault.

Whilst I was reversing on my driveway last week I felt a bang like I had driven over a rock. That’s what I thought I was so didn’t think anything of it. The next day the rear was lumping and seemed worse when turning. After a few minutes it stopped. Ever since it has been intermittent and doesn’t matter where in the journey it is (slow speed only) but today there was nothing. The car feels like it’s driving on ice in the wet so I tested it by wheel spinning on my drive. Only the front wheels left marks. So definitely only 2wd. The handbrake works fine, the car rolls so nothing seems to be seized. The bearings are not overly warm after a drive. The sound of grinding (like a train on jointed track) is coming from under the boot when it occurs.

So I hope I’m correct in narrowing down to the Haldex or the rear diff. My next question is how to narrow it down further or have I given enough clues for someone to nail it? I have tried lifting the car up but the jacks I have access to at the moment don’t go high enough. I’ve got a lot to do at the rear end anyway so hopefully I get it all done in one hit. I’ve only had the car a year so don’t know about the diff services. Unfortunately I need the car everyday and the plan was to do all the servicing in a couple of months when I have the money. Is this risky (hearing horror stories about seizures)?

So many thanks in advance for any pointers. It’s greatly appreciated.
2014 Freelander 2: 2.2td.

Pesky auto correct!


Try pulling the Haldex fuse from the fuse box in the boot. I think it's FB1 on later models . It's described as active coupling or similar in the handbook. That isolates the Haldex and your noises etc should go away which will confirm it is a Haldex problem. Traction warnings will disappear when you plug back in. You can now run in 2 wheel drive until you can get the Haldex repaired. FL2 SD4 XS 2013 Orkney Grey

Sure its not front ptu splines stripped. I would expect some message on dash if haldex had failed.

If the mechanical part of the Haldex is faulty there's no message on dash.

Lakelander wrote:

Pesky auto correct!


Try pulling the Haldex fuse from the fuse box in the boot. I think it's FB1 on later models . It's described as active coupling or similar in the handbook. That isolates the Haldex and your noises etc should go away which will confirm it is a Haldex problem. Traction warnings will disappear when you plug back in. You can now run in 2 wheel drive until you can get the Haldex repaired.

Chrism551 wrote:

Sure its not front ptu splines stripped. I would expect some message on dash if haldex had failed.

There is an occasional knock from the front to haldex area but I’ve also got a loose heat shield. I’ll get a properly look later as this might be something. Thanks

Normally when there is s haldex fault you'll get a warning "Gearbox fault traction reduced" or similar and although it says gearbox it isn't! and terrain response won't be available. I've had this with pump screen filter blocked.
I did have an issue similar to yours where the rear was 'grabbing' and rear wheels apparently locking up when reversing and turning at the same time. This caused the wheels to skip on loose surface although no actual banging noise. The reason for this was low haldex oil level. I don't know where it had gone to but after replacing the oil (did a filter change as well) all was fine again. There was no error message on the dash in that scenario. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Part of my plan over the next couple of months was to do a full service, cambelt change, intercooler pipe replacement, turbo oil feed pipe leak fix and the pcv to air intake pipe leak fix. Just a shame that I hadn’t got this all done so at least I can rule out the need for a service!

I’m going to do a bit more fault finding over the weekend. I’ve only heard the sound a couple of times the past day or so and not as bad. Still 2wd even though I thought the rear wheels span yesterday (previous reply). I’m going to see if I can get the car lifted and take a closer look at the full drive train.

After writing the above post I thought “sod it! No point in procrastination” so did a few tests.

Moved forward/reverse tight turn. Knocking heard and felt.
Pulled FB1 fuse (haldex). Not felt but slight knocking heard, not as bad.
Reinstated FB1. Felt and heard.
Wheel spin test: interesting! Front wheel marks, only the rear n/s tyre mark.
Looked underneath and slight play in the o/s drive shaft and slight weep (see photo).



Have I found my culprit? If it is I will obviously change both rear props and oil change in the diff. See how it goes before going for a new diff.

(Edit): scrub that about the wheel spin. No rear wheel spin but the rear shafts do move (marked then) so not seized. Seeing as the was a “bang” it leads me to think the diff has gone. If I do the diff, I’ll do the axle props to be sure as I’ll have everything off anyway.

The rear shafts will always move - they're connected to the wheels.
Sounds more like a problem with your front PTU to be honest.

I only checked to rule out seizing. The initial bang and the subsequent intermittent low speed cornering knocking comes from the very rear. I sat my son in the bare boot and drove up and down the drive. He said the noise was below the boot. I’ll look later if there is any play or weeps from the front PTU.
I might just end up getting it diagnosed at a local Indy if it looks like probablys and maybes. I’m fairly new to this so I want to be sure what it is. Until then I’ll keep kicking and prodding!

Any decent Indy’s in North East Suffolk? I think my closest is HWB in Halesworth.

Mine turned out to be the PTU with those symptoms, only correctly diagnosed when I took it to Bell Engineering to have a new haldex fitted.

It’s looking like it might be worth doing the 215 mile, 4hr+ drive to Bell Engineering. They seem to come highly recommended on here. Hopefully I will have the funds in a couple of months (if the diffs don’t implode in the mean time).

Who would have thought owning a FL2 would be such a learning curve and pocket emptier!

I'm back there on the 24th, booked in May so quite a waiting list for a new diff, a 120 mile trip for me but think it's worth it for the piece of mind that the job will be done correctly and ar a fair price.
Phoned round locally to have it done but some of the quotes and explanations of the work that would be done was simply horrendous.

Nebulaman wrote:

It’s looking like it might be worth doing the 215 mile, 4hr+ drive to Bell Engineering. They seem to come highly recommended on here. Hopefully I will have the funds in a couple of months (if the diffs don’t implode in the mean time).

Who would have thought owning a FL2 would be such a learning curve and pocket emptier!