Hi, I'm Richard in Norfolk and have joined to see if anyone has any info on an intermittant problem.
I have a 2010 TD4 HSE that has an intermittant starting problem. It's been fine for months but all of a sudden it won't always start on the button. It will click like a relay is working but not turn over, or do half a turn then nothing. Seems like a bad connection or maybe a relay being awkward but then will clear up and be fine for weeks or months.
Anyone had this problem?
Waiting in headscratching anticipation.

Starter solenoid. There are refurb kits available.

Might be worth looking at the battery and its connections.

The FL2 needs a good battery in very good condition. It is a very power hungry machine.

Read this thread ---
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39555.html?highlight=starting

Otherwise, as BossBob says above, the starter contacts have been known to fail after a few years.

Starter Circuit Diagram.

Click image to enlarge

Hi everyone I'm newly registered after so long and not sure how to start my own thread if that's possible lol... I have an issue with my start control module in my freelander 2 hse 2010... I have replaced with a second hand unit... car doesn't accept key doesn't dock inside unit. Have tried with sdd to register but says unit is already registered... unsure if already registered to my car or to previous car it was fitted to... I can get car running by holding key pressed into dock and using launch or sdd resetting anti theaft but once you turn car off and pull key out you need to repeat procedure... was wondering if there is any way of coding the unit to the ecu... has any ever done this before... its sending me crazy.... at this point I'm unsure if buying a brand new unit and registering to the car will solve problem.. I know you can program keys once... is this the case with the starter control module? If anyone could help point me in right direction it would be greatly appreciated

From memory, SDD won't configure a second hand dock to a vehicle, only a new dock.
What's wrong with the original dock? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thanks for the reply, the mechanism was nackerd so what I tried was unsoldering original board to second hand unit but cause car to go into anti theaft mode and unit not working so go another unit thinking I could code it in... but nothing... I wonder if I was to pin ecu and change code to new unit and try it that way

The Key Module query is duplicated.

The main query is here

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic40128.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)