Although this is not Freelander related, people on here have been so helpful when I had my own issues...
My daughter has a ssangyong Tivoli 2015. Her management light, and limp mode come on intermittently. If she pulls over, turns off and restarts it usually goes away.... She had a local garage look at it, and they fitted a new crank sensor. They flagged what they called, some dodgy wiring....see photo. I ran the car for codes, and got code P0341 which is camshaft sensor. This dodgy wiring looks iffy to me and I suspect might be the problem. Any thoughts kind folks ?

Dodgy is definitely the word for it I think it would be helpful to methodically redo every wire one by one correctly and see if it helps.

They don't even look like they have been done by an auto electiction. I would have expected some heat shrink at the least.

Yes it looks like a DIY bodge job clean wires a little solder and heat sinks should sort them out.

Hard to tell from picture which wire goes where.

Does the wire between the heat shrinks go into the loom or is it just kinked?

If it is only a kink then I suggest you rewire the socket on the left of picture with 2 new tails and remove existing crimps, then re-crimp, heat sleeve back into loom wiring.

If the wire additionally goes to loom, then just try examining the existing crimps (pull each wire gently) and just redo (black) taped one. Try to get wires to be equal length to stop stressing the shortest. Secure wiring (cable tie) if possible.

Check pins/sockets in that connector for damage/corrosion while you are there. There must be an underlying reason why original fix/fixes were done. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks folks. I'll take a look when I can get up to her.

The Error Code P0341 is consistent with poor or faulty wiring causing electrical pick-up/interference with sensor signals.

Quote from website explanation below ----

The camshaft position sensor is designed to signal Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. This sensor interacts with the crankshaft position sensor to regulate the opening of intake valves on each cylinder and fuel injection. A reluctor wheel attached to the camshaft passes by the camshaft position sensor to deliver the most accurate readings.

Make sure that camshaft position sensor wiring is not routed too close to coils or spark plugs. These ignition components can cause interference or part damage such as burning, chafing or melting over time. It is also important to make sure that no connections have corroded or become loose, as either condition can cause the connection to be lost intermittently and set code P0341. If the sensor and wiring appear to be in satisfactory working condition, try to take a close look at the reluctor wheel.

Depending on the make, model and engine type of a vehicle, it may be possible to look at the reluctor wheel attached to the camshaft through the cam sensor port. Otherwise, it may be necessary to remove the camshaft or intake manifold to clear the way for a visual inspection.

The most common indications of camshaft position sensor problems other than visual inspection and OBD-II diagnostic testing are a Check Engine malfunction indicator light or an engine that will not start. Depending on the underlying issues, the PCM may enable the engine to run in what is referred to as “limp-in” or “limp-home” mode with poor fuel economy.

https://www.autozone.com/diy/diagnostic-tr...code-p0341

PS good luck curing the problem on your next visit --- (she is lucky to have a Dad like you to sort things out) FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Looking at a job with a mess of wiring it makes me think of could be 2 minutes or 2 days. Then someone says they charged how much.

Thanks for the info Ian. I'm going to go up tomorrow to see if I can sort it, or at least take a look. I will keep the thread updated

Soldered and heat shrunk 3 connectors. Engine management light now off.
Will see how it goes. Thanks for all the help as usual.

Soldered and heat shrunk 3 connectors. Engine management light now off.
Will see how it goes. Thanks for all the help as usual.

Result 👍 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Never ever use crimps on low voltage connections with a current in milliamps, they are iffy enough on 240v especially cheap Chinese crimps from E-bay or Amazon my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

The only thing I can think is that at some point in its life, a family of rodents have been living in that car when it has been parked up for a period of time.
The wiring is a mess, crimps, and electrical tape in 4 different area that I found yesterday. Truth is my daughter has spent her hard earned on a lemon. If I had looked at that car before it was purchased she never would have bought it.
However, with a bit of wire wiggling I managed to get the engine management light to go out. I stripped out three crimp connectors, soldered, in new wire, and heat shrunk over the top.
Today, my daughter has driven the car on several trips, and is over the moon to finally have a car that she can get my Two grandsons to school in, and then off to work. It feels good to sometimes be a hero....
There are about another 10 dodgy connections, that I will tackle as and when they fail. What it needs is a whole new wiring loom, but its not going to be getting One at about £3k.
Thanks again for all the help folks.

So, just for an update. Management light came on again after a period of about 3 weeks. Did another Three dodgy connections, and all fine again.
Ran fine for another month then, management light back on, but not gone into limp mode, which it had done previously.
More dodgy connectors to find and sort. I think I am going to be doing repairs on this car for sometime.