Hi all, I have a F2 SD4 HSE Auto. When driving in a straight line, Feathered accelerator pedal, say at 30 mph, the back end of the car starts to shudder. Release or press the pedal and it clears. Sometimes it does it and sometimes it don`t. The dealer I bought it from has fitted four new tyres, although front and rear are different. Its also been to the local independent LR shop who has carried out a Software update and Auto box flush and oil change, no different and says it could be, Haldex, Diff, Front drive shafts. I dont think he really knows. I love the car and just want to fix it. Help would be appreciated. Paul Hayes

I am surprised that your 'Specialist' Garage was so vague with it's diagnosis.

This is what a search for 'Vibration' on the Forum shows.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0

To help forum members help you can you do some checks;
Is it RPM -- or -- Road Speed related?
Is there a noise associated with vibration?
Does the vibration alter when turning left or right, -- or accelerating or overun?

Anything extra will help.

My guess (and it is a guess) would be first signs of Rear Diff Bearing, or Propshaft Joints/Balance.


https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39770.html?highlight=vibration FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Had a really bad one a month or so ago. Was convinced it was the torque converter finally given up. Was as simple as a wheel alignment needed.

Worse on a hill? I'd say look at the torque converter.

Is it only at the 1800-2000rev range? There's a lot of posts on that here with a few different causes.

I replaced my propshaft joints a while back and that cleaned up a light rear shuddering.

Dif oil change and haldex service are always worth doing if you don't know when they were done last.

Mag spec, I had a judder? At certain speeds which I describe as “ cattle grid rumble”
Came across this description somewhere and was exactly what my car sounded like.
The answer for me was a complete auto box flush.
Cured the problem and have done couple of thousand miles since in perfect running.
Hope this helps. Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

Gearbox Flushed, Software update and looks lie a new prop fitted. I`m going to try changing the wheels round, rear tyres slightly bigger than front, although all new. On my Sorento, new Tyres always on rear as rear wheel drive, Freelander front wheel drive, Slightly bigger on front I suppose, otherwise, back to the dealer. Paul Hayes

Tyres should ALL be the same size other wise it can/will cause problems with the drive train damage could have already been done? get the dealer to sort it. Good Luck. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

If the Haldex is working as designed tyre wear front to rear is irrelevant as long as they are the same badged size as the Haldex completely disengages the drive front to rear above 15 to 20 mph.
The myth is carried over from the Freelander 1 which didn’t have a Haldex and the drive front to rear stayed engaged. Drive any distance with even slightly mismatched tyres in a FL1 will cause problems.

Thanks everyone. Paul Hayes

Tyre wear is no problem for the FL2, as indicated above the haldex is electronically engaged/disengaged.

From experience, tyre wear effects the outer edges of the nearside tyres, with the front especially bad.
I run my tyres in 4 wheel sets and interchange them diagonally when about half worn to get the best life from them.

I do not believe that your problem will be tyre related.

Please give a bit more info about symptoms and history of car/changes/servicing/etc. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Only had it 6 weeks info is vague Paul Hayes

Feels like driving a manual in too high gear, shudders from rear intermittently, lift or accelerate and it stops till next time which could be straight away or not. Happens any time at 30, 40, 50 mph. Transmission flushed and software update. Also looks like it has had a new rear prop. No definitive diagnosis from local independent Land Rover shop, could be torque converter, front drive shafts, haldex or rear diff. Paul Hayes

Pull the Haldex fuse & try driving around again. You will get terrain response warnings but they will go away once you refit the fuse. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Seized rear brakes? The judder is how I found out my rear brake callipers needed refurbing / replacing Corrado VR6 Mystic Blue - Gone
Freelander 2 Orkney Grey

Check your handbrake shoes are fully releasing, might have one shoe dragging which will cause this. I had this really bad on the motorway, two days after i bought mine and had fears of bad gearbox or rear diff etc. turned out the handbrake cables had slight splits in the outer cover allowing water in, which in turn rusted the cable causing them to stick when releasing. On further inspection the rear shoes had cut grooves into the drums rendering the whole lot scrap.

Thanks for your replies, will try haldex fuse and check brakes. Paul Hayes