Thought I would cross-post my general queries here as there doesn't seem to be too much happening on the AULRO FL2 forum atm.

Longterm Disco and RR owner now considering a FL2. I would be using it mostly for suburban driving with sand tracks and beach capabilities for SEQ also required. From my reading so far I understand that the TR and general setup gives it good capabilities despite the lack of low range/diff lock.
So,
1) Should I consider all FL2's from 2009 on, or focus on 2011 on (facelift?) or 2013 (latest TR)?
2) I feel the 2.2 TD4 is more appropriate given its torque and general lack of vices, mileage and serviceability. V6 would be considered but, 98RON fuel makes me apprehensive.
3) I'd look at a strut lift, but 30, 40 or 50mm and is there a need for camber correction on the front?
4) Are snorkels a thing or just all custom fabrications?
5) Do I get a FL2 licence for my Nanocom Evolution or buy a different diagnostic tool? (Autel D200)

Budget would be up to $15k for a good example with less than 200k. The (Aus) market seems promising at the moment.
TIA Steve
98 RR HSE

I can’t answer all of your questions but, over the last 13 years, I have owned 5 FL2’s, 2 Disco 4’s and an L405 Range Rover.
I currently own an FL2 and the L405.
The FL2 (if fitted with the essential auto and decent tyres) is a great off-road car, especially being so compact and light weight. Low range would be nice but, as long as it’s an auto, it’s not a problem; traction control, used properly, can also be very effective. I have no experience of using lift kits or raised air intakes.
Out of the L405 and the FL2, I usually choose the FL2 unless I need the inside space or wading depth.
The petrol is an inline 6, from Volvo. I’ve driven them. I was expecting more. The SD4 2.2 diesel is the sweetspot.
CO2 output figures really favour the post 2010 “e” suffixed and post 2011 facelift cars, here in the UK but, if that’s not important to you, there is no pressing need to go for later cars.
Happy hunting 👍

I have the Si4 2.0L petrol. It takes 91 but always put 98 in it, other than a few times in the outback. You get longer range with 98. So the extra you pay is a mute point.

As far as ground clearance, you are not going to be able to do serious tracks as they have been ruined by 33" tyres.

There are no issues with torque with the petrol engine, even with 255/60r18 tyres.

Been on sand a handful of times, had let tyres down to 20psi, but actually forgot most times to change to sand program. A couple of times was a bit concerned, but never got stuck. Had sand tracks & tow rope, never had to use them other than the Freelander towing a truck bogged on grass with 3 tonnes of roof tiles.

We have had our fair share of red dust. Just pack a spare air filter. If it's an oncoming road train you are going to have to pull over & stop because you can't see anything. Just turn the engine off as well until the air clears. There is far more red dust behind trim panels than in the air filter. Fortunately for those of us who drive on the correct side of the road, the intake is well placed.

City driving, stop start traffic, the petrol is thirsty. Outback long distances with full payload, no issues. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Sorry, I hadn’t thought of the 2.0 petrol, there are hardly any in the UK 🙁

John E. wrote:

I can’t answer all of your questions but, over the last 13 years, I have owned 5 FL2’s, 2 Disco 4’s and an L405 Range Rover.
I currently own an FL2 and the L405.
The FL2 (if fitted with the essential auto and decent tyres) is a great off-road car, especially being so compact and light weight. Low range would be nice but, as long as it’s an auto, it’s not a problem; traction control, used properly, can also be very effective. I have no experience of using lift kits or raised air intakes.
Out of the L405 and the FL2, I usually choose the FL2 unless I need the inside space or wading depth.
The petrol is an inline 6, from Volvo. I’ve driven them. I was expecting more. The SD4 2.2 diesel is the sweetspot.
CO2 output figures really favour the post 2010 “e” suffixed and post 2011 facelift cars, here in the UK but, if that’s not important to you, there is no pressing need to go for later cars.
Happy hunting 👍

What I didn’t make clear was that there were no significant changes that left the older versions significantly less reliable than later cars.
There are some nice things about the later cars but equally, it’s worth being aware that cars with LED running lights and without Xenons uniquely have single optic headlights - if night use is important.

I note that when the FL2 and DS are used for LR Experience Days, they do every thing the bigger Air Suspension models do, except the deep rutted sections. Therefore I think that the only thing you need to worry about is ground clearance, as the clever traction system is as good as any.

The more powerful SD4 auto for the best driving experience in the UK, but any auto version lends itself offroad/slow manoeuvres. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

The same was noticed by me. We went on a drive around east Devon with the Honiton LRO and the only thing they worried about was a raised manhole in the middle of one of the lanes that was high enough to take out the fuel tank which is the lowest part of the FL2. The car did everything that the others did.

My 2014 SD4 SE Tech is the best FL2 we've had.

Its worst fault from my point of view is the poor headlamp. It uses a projector lamp with a single HB3 halogen bulb and a shutter for main/dip beams.
The single HB3 is a bean counter demand I'm sure - it overheats, causing reduced lifespan of the HB3 bulb. JLR did a modification; a ballast resistor to reduce overheating but it also reduces brightness which was poor in the first place.

The higher models use the same lamp but with a HID bulb and self levelling etc.

Since the lamp was designed for HID, several of us on here have replaced the HB3 with an after-market HID unit which works very well. Its technically an MOT fail in the UK but Ive got away with it for several years. Jules

Many thanks to all of you for your considered opinions. This has helped me a lot.
Best
Steve

I think most of your questions have been answered except the last one.
I had a Nanocom Evo for my Discovery 2. When I bought the Freelander 2 I contacted Blackbox Solutions who make the Nanocom to see if there was a suitable license available for the 2013 on FL2s. There wasn't and they had no plans on releasing one. I don't know if they ever did.
Sold my Nanocom and bought an Autel AP200. It does everything I need it to. Got it for £42 with a discount code on Ebay. They're normally about £50. Handy bit of kit that I keep in the car. I actually have another one for VWs. You get on free licence then additional vehicles licences have to be purchased at £19.99 per year. Makes more sense to just buy another Autel and pays for itself in 2 1/2 years. Only issue is you can only link one unit to your email address so subsequent units need a different email address to use them. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

zzsteve wrote:

3) I'd look at a strut lift, but 30, 40 or 50mm and is there a need for camber correction on the front?

I know you're over in Australia, so buying from a UK company may or may not be cost effective so this post might be a bit pointless to you. But, MuddyMods do a 40mm front, 50mm rear lift kit for the Freelander 2. https://www.muddymods.com/collections/free...kit-bundle They also do it in a 40mm lift all round if you prefer. There is no need for any camber correction with their kit. We have this installed on our car and I made a bit of a before and after video on it which you can see here.

zzsteve wrote:

4) Are snorkels a thing or just all custom fabrications?

MuddyMods also do a snorkel for the Freelander 2 as well which you can see here. https://www.muddymods.com/collections/free...-2-snorkel There is a good video that's been made by Joel which show's it being fitted by Warren at MuddyMods. It comes with a guide and template which means you can fit it yourself.

 https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

Preferably get one with 17" rims, then you can install 245/70r17. 775mm ∅

Next option is 18" rims. 255/60r18. 762mm ∅

Don't get one with 19" rims.

Standard 18" rims is 235/60r18 ∅ is 739mm ∅

So with 245/70r17 you get an extra 18mm radius. & the boot floor won't be needed to be lifted. ^6mm for the 255/60r18 over the 235/60r18 tyres. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I've got a 40/50 lift on my i6. However, if I was going to do it again, I'd go for adjustable coil overs from the likes of XYZ with a range of 120mm adjustment. I would run standard tyres at normal height, but for off roading I'd adjust to +50mm and fit my 265/60/18 tyres.

John E. wrote:

What I didn’t make clear was that there were no significant changes that left the older versions significantly less reliable than later cars.
There are some nice things about the later cars but equally, it’s worth being aware that cars with LED running lights and without Xenons uniquely have single optic headlights - if night use is important.