I've just had the rear left wheel bearing replaced and after a few miles the dash started showing ABS warning, HDC-off, Terrain response off etc.

Codes are C0036-07 (68 ) Rear left tone wheel; U0415-94 (2C) Invalid data from ABS control module and U0415-68 (2C) Rear Differential Invalid data from ABS control module.

Site Search shows only one mention of this fault, with no follow-up on a fix.

I'm assuming that the tone wheel warning is the main problem and the others are simply knock-on effects. I'm (perhaps naively) hoping that this is a sensor issue that can be resolved without disassembly.

Any thoughts/previous experience?

EDIT: Oh, and garage shut till Monday! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Hi, I have just changed my rear right wheel bearing last week.The bearing has a " right and wrong" way to fit. The magnetic side which talks to the abs sensor must face inner side of the hub.
If the bearing has been fitted correctly, I suspect damage has occurred to the abs sensor, the abs wire, or the abs to loom connector is poorly connected or damaged.
I removed my sensor to avoid possible damage whilst changing the bearing. Not difficult or time consuming to do. Replacement sensor not expensive.
If the bearing is fitted the wrong way around, the whole job will need doing again, and another new bearing fitted.
Either way, I guess it should be at the garages expense, not yours.
Good luck
Richard

Thanks, that is interesting.

When I clear the fault, I can drive for about half a mile before the fault re-appears, whereas I would have thought that it would show immediately (or on first braking or first bend) if the whole bearing was mounted wrongly.

I've not had the wheel off yet to have a look, as I've already got my wife's car up on axle stands and can't have both out of use at the same time.  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Sods law both cars have a problem at the same time !
I do not know how long it would take for the error code to latch, I suspect others may be able to offer more insight.
I suppose you could disconnect the sensor from the loom, clear the codes and try again to see if the code still takes 0.5 miles to latch. It would however mean removing the wheel arch liner to get at the connector ........ once you have finished working on the other car

OK. So I got my wife's car finished and out of the way (it was only two front discs, but the carrier bolts were a pig to get off and the two disc retaining screws needed drilling out).

I took the FL2 rear wheel off and had a quick look last night. The wheel speed sensor was in place, with the wire disappearing up behind the arch liner as it should. The sensor screw is so badly rusted that I couldn't even determine whether it is meant to be a torx or a cross-head - the mechanic must have removed the top connector rather than the sensor itself, when he took the hub off.

The liner can be pulled back slightly for access, but the retaining screws are so rusty, that I am reluctant to remove it all without a supply of replacement screws and clips.

This morning, I cleared all the fault codes before taking my son to work. The faults reappeared about two miles along the road, at a point where I accelerated past 50 mph and went round a bend. Not certain whether this was speed, distance travelled, differential speed across the rear wheels or lateral G-force on the wire, I cleared the codes again before heading back home. I took it gently on the way home, not getting above 45mph and the fault did not reappear. I then tried each of the terrain options and drove to a decent hill to test the HDC - all seemed to work fine and still no fault codes. In HDC, I could feel the brakes working on and off as they should. On my way back home again, I tried everything I could - high revs in lower gear; fast acceleration round bends; taking it to 65 mph - and the codes are still absent.

So I am now less certain of what is going on than I was before! I guess it is that Land Rover thing where you are more nervous when it seems to be working properly than you are when you know it is broken!  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Did you ever get anywhere with this please? I have just bought a Freelander 2 with the exact same code and symptoms.