Hello to everyone. First post here so excuse me if I miss something and my english.

I've had a LR2 SD4 2011 Auto for 2 years now. Last year, during a Euro trip, everything was running smoothly. However, I noticed that at several junctions, the RPMs would drop from the normal idle to around 500 every 4 seconds. This occurred a few times, but everything seemed normal afterward. Then i had to replace the camshaft cover and installed oil catch can after the PCV valve. The issue resurfaced, happening at every junction. Conducted a smoke test from the air filter to the throttle body, but there was no visible leak.

I exclude the Auto gearbox as the RPMs are dropping at parking, reverse, neutral and drive, but most at Drive.

Then i found coolant leak from the EGR cooler plastic hose that was replaced. Then I replace the MAF sensor, made air path test and calibration, battery test and battery reset. The battery was repalced also 2 months ago.

I have attached the results of the air path test. Everything passed except for Idle Speed MAP LOW and Fast Idle VGT HIGH. Additionally, there is a noticeable oil leak on the right side of the intercooler that has been increasing in size since I purchased the car.

Today during medium acceleration i feel some hesitation and juddering between 1300 and 1400 RPMs that was gone after 2 seconds. I think to replace the crankshaft sensor too.

Any help or what to check next will be appreciated, especially for the idle rpms drop. It is very annoying. I don't want to sell the landy but that issue makes me crazy.

I need to drive 1000 kilometers in the next few days and I need to know if it's risky. Otherwise, I've tested it on the highway and everything seems normal.

Thank you.

had this for years and tried many things (replacing EGR, system purge etc), nothing solved it.
one month ago had a trip to Turkey and to my surprise after fueling a Shell V-Power full tank, that issue almost got away. which makes me think the injectors were contaminated and briefly, they got a little better. I plan a new holiday in Turkey

@Iepulere2 I am always filling with premium diesel and adding Bardahl BDC additive. Had my injectors refurbished a year ago when a repair shop left the car to run without fuel.

So little update on my problem. I made air path calibration and now the RPMs are not dropping on idle. Instead i have some kind of juddering sometimes between 1000 and 2000 RPMs with light throttle. When i press the accelerator more when the juddering happens and the car start to accelerate the juddering goes away.

I noticed oil coming out of the intercooler. So i think there is a split on it.
Next steps will be to replace the crankshaft sensor and the intercooler, and probably will upgrade the hose after it with a silicone one.


If anyone has any other advice, please feel free to share.

it may not be your issue but I had a judder around 1500-1800 rpm and it turned out to be a worn torque converter...they are a fluid coupling but also apparently have friction plates which lock up around this rpm...I needed a recon gearbox which fixed my issue

Hi, before there was no judder. It came after I made the air path calibration and it is not constantly happening. If it was the torq converter it will happen every time the rpms reach specific value. I think the split/crack on the intercooler is not that big to be detected by the ECU, but it is big enough to disturb the sensors values, throttle valve smoothness and the EGR opening values.

In fact the airflow test from the pictures shows that the MAP values are LOW on idl because there is air escaping after the MAF sensor, and the VGT vanes are open HIGH on Fast idle, because the turbo is trying to compensate that air that is escaping. This is my thoughts.

The intercooler clearly needs replacing anyway - so lets see if it solves the idle problems Jules

Ok. The intercooler and crankshaft sensor were replaced, but I did not notice any difference.

Yes, the RPM drop at idle is gone after I performed the air path calibration, but now there's a juddering while driving that wasn't there before. It judders between 1200-1600 RPMs sometimes.

In the live data, I noticed that the TPS sensor has constant values. The throttle position for bank 1 always stays at 8%, and the voltage is negative, indicating that it doesn't seem to have information about the throttle body flap position.

Am I on the right track?
How can I check the TPS sensor? Can it be repaired or do I have to replace the whole throttle body?

Click image to enlarge

Hello. Removed the DPF, disabled and isolated the EGR.

No more RPM drop and exhaust smell inside.

Car behaves better with more power and better fuel consumption.

The interesting question for me is why if the DPF was full/clogged there was no check engine… Santorini Black 2011 SD4 190hp *maybe