As its starting to get cooler in the mornings, my beast is starting to take a second or 2 longer to start up.
Have a no name battery in it: RC 160, 80Ah, cca 800, charge 65%.
Is it worthwhile getting an AGM battery for it or is it not worth the bother.
My L322 diesel had a AGM battery in it and I replaced that with a Lithium battery approx 4 or 5 years ago.
That is still going strong. But that is a different beast to the FL2, lots more electrics on it.
Thoughts please are greatly apprerciated.

littlecub

I use an AGM in my 2008 LR2. Technically, you should do a new battery reset to clear the old stored data. Some OBII have that function or just use SDD. Regardless, the ecm will reset the system over a 24-48 hour period regardless.

They put out higher amps and have more reserve capacity.

I got mine from Costco.

Thanks MI.

They recommend an AGM battery if the vehicle has Stop/Start system.

Today it's only just starting to warm up after a very long wet winter over here.

Mines an auto so no stop start. Although when you take your foot off the go pedal the revs do drop right down. Its a bit unsettling but am slowly getting used to it unless someone says its not supposed to do it.

cheers
littlecub

Are you saying that if you drive at say 120km/h and you take your foot off the revs drop to near idle ?

That shouldnt happen beacuse the torque convertor should have "locked up" at high speeds.

Page 1280 of JLR manual

"The torque converter contains a hydraulically operated lock-up clutch which is controlled by the TCM via a solenoid in the valve block which actuates spool valves to control the hydraulic pressure applied to the clutch. This allows the TCM to provide 3 modes of converter operation; unlocked, partially locked and fully locked." Jules

Hi Jules, its more pronounced around town speeds not when traveling along a highway.

littlecub

I have the petrol engine. It idles at about 1000rpm when cold & works its way down to 700rpm pretty quickly when "warm".

The engine on level road will sit on & will only change down a gear if it needs a bit more power than can be provided at 1700rpm.

The petrol engine seems to have enough grunt at low rpm, even factoring in the larger tyre diameter, with a 7% torque loss due to larger diameter, 255/60r18 vs 235/60r18.

There is a longish steepish road near me (Spit Hill heading north), & for what ever reason I always try to get up avoiding the car changing down a gear. A pointless personal benchmark over many years!

Did notice an extra person (third) made it a bit more difficult, & also years ago when I added 100kg of batteries & various modifications, mostly recovery equipment, maybe 20kg of acoustic insulation.

P.S. Have driven the Freelander around Tassie (other cars with far longer stints), very enjoyable doing the short circuit, Cape Pillar, Jacobs Ladder, Dove Lake, Russell Falls & back to Hobart (ran out of time!) Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18