Hi all,
I am about to do oil changes on my Freelander 2, 2006 model year, 3,2Liter i6 and automatic gearbox.

Apparently the gearbox is Aishin 6 speed.
And the Haldex is generation 3.

Now, I've bought the following oil:

Engine oil: Castrol Edge Ti, 0W-30 fully synthetic. 8 liters.

Automatic Gearbox oil: Ravenol ATF autobox oil, T-IV Fluid, Professional Line. No idea about the viscosity, as Ravenol refuse to give any specs (?). 12 Liter.

Front Power Transfer box (PTU): Ravenol Transfer Fluid, DTF-1. 80W. Professional Line. 1 Liter.

Haldex oil: Ravenol AWD-H Fluid for Haldex couplings. 2 x 300ml tubes.

Rear differential oil: MPM Gearbox oil, 75W-90, fully synthetic (made for rear differentials like this).

Haldex filter kit, Generation 3, from Britpart. Is that any good (Britpart filter)?

Plus some seals.

That's all good I suppose. Any comments to all of the above is most welcome.

-----

Now, I have been reading lot's and lot's of guides. My problem is that they are English, and often all sorts of abbreviations of words are used. Also, the guides tend to be pages upon pages on other information, for example which company to use, which oil, drilling, general repair and much more. While that is good, it clutters up the service guides themselves. Add to that pictures that shows something in detail, but not where it's actually placed on the car. For example, it would be nice to know, that a drain port is next to this or that, so I can actually locate it.

Sorry, maybe it's just me, who don't know how to read English well enough, since it's not my native language, but I simply cannot understand the guides and cannot use them. At least the ones I've seen so far.

Could someone please direct me to precise and concise guides for all of the above, save the engine oil, as I did change that already. That would be most appreciated!!!

Also, a precise and concise list of what is needed to perform these jobs, such as if I need to get a measuring cup, how big, what scale etc. And if I need to get an electric pump to suck it out, or if there are other methods. The amount of present information is very confusing for me at least. It would be great if there are exact guides, not general discussions mixed into it all.

I also have the 3500 pages or so user and service manual from Landrover on a pdf file. Sorry, but it's simply unusable. I've never in my life seen such a bad manual. No exact pictures or drawings, just some mixed color lines, sometimes a picture in really bad quality so I cannot see what it actually is, and so on. And the most annoying is the lack of being able to have a list of content with chapters, sub chapters etc, or pages noted, so look it up. I've spent more than 30 hours so far trying to find information in this Land Rover book, and I found 3 things I needed to know about jobs to be done (not related to oil changes, though). I cannot use the manual, as it's made so bad. If someone have some good information on actually how to use the manual, it would be really nice. I did read the first 50 pages on how to, connector designation etc. And it doesn't give any information as to how to actually look up things in the manual. Argh...
Mayne there's another manual out there which is not just one long scanned paper, without a content list, page references etc.???

I have service manuals for my Laverda motorcycle, easy to read and look up stuff. I've also got service manuals for my Lotus Esprit, which is also some 2500 pages. It's rally easy to understand and use, as for looking up, and where to find topics, guides etc.
And I have a 2000 pages service manual for my Corrado G60 (the USA importer made service manual, and it's also really easy to get around in

Any guides and suggestions are most welcome. I don't have a garage, so I am doing all work at the road side, and therefore guides needs to be precise and concise, if you get my point.

Kind regards,
Redfox.

Last edited by Redfox on 5th May 2024 8:10 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I have the more recent model.

The 'Owner's Handbook', which sits in the glove box, on page162, about half of the page. Is a list with all the 'lubricants and fluids', about as concise as it gets.

The following page states the quantity of each fluid. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Thanks Lightwater. It's a really old list and no longer applicable where I live. Land Rover dealerships of no use.

But, I was more interested in how to do for the jobs.

Kind regards,
Redfox.

If you mean how to undertake the jobs then I suggest you download the free JLR manual- nearly all the info that you will need is in there plus good diagrams.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z/...10.pdf?e=1 Jules

Plenty of helpful guides prepared by members on here. Search for some of member 'Arctic' s
posts just as an example, very comprehensive and loads of photos.

Word of caution regarding the automatic transmission fluid. Don't just stick any old oil in. The Aisin 6 speed box needs JWS 3309 or JWS 3324 for later cars. I'd not want to risk having to repair or replace the box due to wrong oil. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Bobupndown,

I think this specific Ravenol T-IV was made to satisfy Aisin Warner Automatic Gearbox, and it states on the canister, that it works for Land Rover LR002748 (which is the original Land Rover RSW3309 oil) Aisin (AW)F21, 6 speed auto gearbox, which is what it has, and Land Rover LR022460 amongst others.
I hope it works well.
Do tell me if you disagree.
Thanks for the heads up.

Kind regards,
Redfox.

Last edited by Redfox on 12th May 2024 11:33 am. Edited 1 time in total

Right, so I sucked out the old rear differential oil with a small electric pump from an automotive stuff store, and into a 1Liter jar with measuring lines.
Tools was a 13mm spanner, a new copper sealing ring Land Rover part number: LR001949, plus 3,5Kg of torque on the plug when done.

Probably about time. I have no idea when or if this was ever done before I bought the i6 in December last year.. Now it's done. I took out some 650 ml including the stuff in the lines and the pump. I take it there is around 50ml left that I couldn't get out. Procedure described partially in Land Rover service manual on page 325.

Since I ordered a gold plug with a neodymium magnet for both front and rear, I'll change it again soon. Magnets are to catch any shaved off or worn metal stuff that may or may not be in there. We'll see how it will turn out in the long run. I reckon I will be driving over the Summer with the new oils, and then redo it in the Autumn, then with magnets.

Disgusting stuff:



Then it was time to do the same on the front Power Transfer Unit or transfer case. More sticky old stuff; likewise disgusting and this time it was lacking an amount. I measured some 500ml plus maybe 50ml left, so surely lacking a bit.
Tools was the same: 13mm spanner, a new copper sealing ring Land Rover part number LR001949, plus 3,5Kg of torque on the plug when done.
Same method. The suction tube on this little pump that I connected to my spare motorcycle AGM battery, is thin and long so easy to work with in a pit and also thin enough to actually gain access inside the ptu and the rear diff.

PTU stuff of unknown origin and date:



This is how the setup was:



When doing the PTU in the front, I undid the plug with the 13mm spanner (eventually a ratching one) from straight under the plug. For the suction tube, it's easier if one guides the long thin suction tube from behind in a forward direction, over the rear end of the front sub frame. This way the suction tube can go straight into the ptu oil hole, and guided further in. I guided it a bit to the left and down, and could suck out more or less all of the oil.
It took around 5 minutes per unit I worked on, so easy peasy.

I used a 100ml plastic syringe from a local pharmacy plus ½ meter of clear plastic tubing from a local building supplies store, to inject new fresh oil as per the list in the above mentioning. This was a bit slow, but that is fine, so that I didn't spill any oil by injecting it too fast into the rear diff and ptu. Only at the end, it spilled over, when full. The rear is now having 700ml of oil, and the PTU I then sucked out 120ml as per Land Rover description in the service manual on page 1491.

Plan is to change this stuff every year regardless.

Next is the Aisin Borg Warner AWF21 6 speed auto gearbox and the Haldex generation 3 (so from before 2009), but that's for another weekend.

Kind regards,
Redfox.

Last edited by Redfox on 6th May 2024 8:21 am. Edited 2 times in total

 Jules

Right, so I did the automatic gearbox oil change, on the Aisin AWF21 6 speed automatic gearbox, and I'll try and describe it a little bit. Maybe it'll offer some sense.

- Warm up the car a bit and shut it off.

- Open the bonnet (hood).

- Loosen with a pair of pliers, the big clamping ring that secures the induction tube to the upper part of the air filter box.

- unclip the electrical connector on the air filter box.



- loosen, but don't undo the 4 screws that holds the upper part of the air filter box to the lower one, and lift off the upper half of the air filter box, as well as the air filter.



- lift up and remove the lower part of the air filter box. It's resting in 3 rubber grommets beneath. Just make sure that they don't fall out of their position.

- Below these, in a narrow tight spot is a bit flat nut with a Torx 55 socket head. That's the filler plug. To undo this, I used a ½" ratchet handle, with a 5" extension, plus a 10" extension, plus a bit holder with a T55 bit. I inserted this into the narrow passage, and with a little bit of an angle, I could insert the T55 into the bolt. Then I adjusted the angle a bit more upright, but not vertical, and I could loosen the T55 bolt. I removed the tools, and just pinched my right hand into that same passage, and could lift up the torx bolt with two fingers. It's a bit tight.



- Now for the underside of the car. I worked in a pit. I undid the 6 bolts that hold on the thick engine protection plate - 13mm socket.

- Looking up from under the car, locate the gearbox, and the apprx. 25mm big round 17mm hex keyed special bolt/measuring tube, with a small Torx 35 (I can't remember) inside it. Loosen the small one and drain what ever oil comes out. Then loosen the 17mm hex one and drain much more oil. This amounts to apprx. 3 Liter or so. Measure that in a jar, and fill up from the above the same amount of fresh atf oil. I used XXX.

- But in my case, the small Torx bolt inside the big hex one, was destroyed by the dpo. I carefully tried to hammer in the correct Torx, but to no avail, as it just busted the remaining part of the Torx head. So, I tried chiseling a cavity and hammer that around, but also to no avail. I then Took a 7mm metal drill bit and slowly drilled in the center of said little Torx headed bolt. Not all the way up, o course, but just enough to make a solid grip for later tools. Then enlarged that to a 7,5mm drill bit.



- Now I was ready for a one size larger Torx bit. Just make sure that there's enough metal left on the circumference of the small Torx bolt, when one drills. And the Torx bit have to be slightly larger than the drill bit. Hold the larger Torx bit up to the new drilled hole, and with many small hits, I hammered the Torx bit into the newly drilled hole. Repeat that many times, making sure it's straight and firm ly seated.
Then I attached an extension and a ratchet and could easily undo the bolt, and drain what ever oil came out - 3 Liters.

- Insert and slightly tighten the two drain bolts. I use the old O-ring seals so far, as they have to come out several times.

- The fill hole on top of the gearbox is around 18mm in diameter, so I inserted ½ meter of clear plastic tube with a suitable funnel, both from a local building supplier for next to no money, on top into the gearbox hole and poured apprx. 3 Liters of fresh oil into the gearbox.

- Now it was time agin for putting back the Torx 55 bolt, by squeezing my hand down there again and while holding the Torx bolt with two fngers, I could lower the same long extensions on to the Torx bolt and slightly tighten it.

- Reinstalled the air filter box, connector etc.

- started up the car, and moved the gearstick through all positions a few times, resting in each position 10-12 seconds. Stopped the engine, and as before removed the air filter box etc, removed the Torx 55 bolt on top of the gear box, and drained the oil as before. Then measure that again and refill with the same amount.

- started the engine and repeated this two more times.

- On the fourth and last oil drain, the gearbox oil was completely clear bright red and I decided it was enough. I refilled, started the engine and this time I let it warm up so that I could measure the gear box oil to be 50°C on the outside gear box casing, measured with a infrared thermometer (also from a local building supplier, also really cheap).

- When I observed the temperature to be 50°C, I just let the engine running, and drained whatever slowly ran out, after having removed the small Torx drain bolt. On this last drain and refill, I used new bolts and new sealings.



Small drain bolt Land Rover part no. LR002908
Small drain bolt seal, o-ring, Land Rover part no. LR000869
Big drain bolt (can usually be reused) Land Rover part no. LR002460
Big brain bolt seal, o-ring, Land Rover part no. LR002461
Refill bolt Land Rover part no. LR000876
Refill bolt seal (aluminium crush washer) Land Rover part no. LR867



While there are so many oils available, I chose Ravenol, Synthetic T-IV Fluid from their professional line, and which meets all criteria's. I used 12 Liters, so 3 canisters in total.

- Shut off the engine, replaced the steel protection plate and packed up, taking a long 100 kilometer detour with lots of shifting, and observed the improved smoothness of the gearshift, the speed of shifting etc. Now, the "Sport" driving mode is actually fairly fast and all gearshifts are so smooth, easy and quick.

- I'll replace the gearbox oil every 2 or 3 years depending on mileage, but I suspect no more than 15.000-18.000 kilometers on a gearbox oil service. The oli I drained was within 2½ years of use, and not very many miles. It seemed okay'ish red and not very polluted, but I'll change it regardless. Then I know it's been done the right way.

Now, it was late evening (I work really slow) and time for a nice cup of tea
Next is the Haldex unit, but that's for another day.

Kind regards,
Redfox.