Hi all,

Since I bought the i6 Freelander 2 just before New year, I've taken a look at the exhaust system. A bit tight I'd say regarding the 4 cats and the exhaust manifold. So, let's for the easiness' sake, talk about the cat back exhaust system.

1/ are there any real world better performing cat back systems?

2/ What do they give? Noise, power, torque, look etc.

3/ Only in relation to engine performance mods or as a stand alone?

4/ have someone built their own in tigged stainless steel?

5/ Isn't the first thing to do, a opening up or at least a check on intake air? (tubing).

I absolutely loathe K&N etc. filters. I have done enough dyno tests to see what they do and doesn't do. Standard paper filter is fine by me. I want to retain the off road capabilities, incl. wading. evt. even better. Snorkel? Noise? EC approval on snorkel, tuning and exhaust? Legal by law now in the EV.

Any comments are highly appreciated, more so the ones from people what have actually tried it in real life.

Btw. is the facelift front fender making the off road driving worse or is it the same? (angle etc.).

Kind regards,
Redfox.

If you fit the spats in front of the front wheels that are part of the facelift you’ll be restricting ground clearance. The same with the stiff plastic mudguards. The fuel tank is the lowest point of the chassis and grounds out before anything else. The snorkels I’ve seen for the FL2 are a bit pointless unless you change the ducting within the front wing as the whole thing is porous. I don’t know about the i6 but the diesel air filter has a drain valve which is often missing.

Wondering if the one way drain valve serves any real purpose.Yes the air box does need a drain but why not just a hole

If wading you will have to be very very deep to get water in it am I right ?

I know water can be sucked in via the air intake hence the need for a drain hole

No, the bottom of the airbox is well below the vent in the wing and the system is under suction when the engine is running. There have been reports that people have found the vent missing as a result of driving through puddles, let alone proper wading, with water getting in the airbox splashing and saturating the air filter which would essentially block it and the filter being sucked further down the inlet pipes along with water.
In reality, unless you waterproof the whole engine bay and its electrical components you will be asking for failure. The standard starter motor and alternator aren’t waterproof, nor is the fuse box. The radiator and intercoolers are reminiscent of filter systems used to take solids out of slurry and need serious cleaning to avoid them being blocked by baked on mud.

When I did a search years ago, I could only find Magnaflow 15576 which is still available for the LR2/FL2 in N.A. A custom shop might be an option.

Last edited by MotionInc on 15th Feb 2024 1:31 pm. Edited 1 time in total

On the subject of air filters/air boxes... We had found by going through some deeper puddles that our air filter was getting wet. Just like so many others out there, our 1 way valve/vent at the bottom of the air box was missing so water was able to easily get up and into the air box. We then found out that you can replaced and upgrade the valve/vent and made a little video about it. To us, this is the most important "fix" that we have done on the car and highly recommend everyone checking their airbox.



Even with that modification, after we did this (which I know isn't normal every day driving)...

https://youtube.com/shorts/HrKzNxmLOpw?si=lZbzkg9Q7c1TFdip

Our air filter was half coated in mud (most likely from the mud run). MuddyMods have recently launched this which should further solve the issue...

https://www.muddymods.com/collections/free...-way-valve

MuddyMods also sell a raised intake which changes the ducting.

https://www.muddymods.com/collections/free...-2-snorkel

You can see it being fitted to Joel's car here...



But as Boss Bob has said, you might just be moving any water issues from the airbox to something electrical.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

I noticed a significant increase in power when driving with the four catalytic converters de-cored.

Hell Yes!!!

Gland rover wrote:

I noticed a significant increase in power when driving with the four catalytic converters de-cored.

There’s a few ways to bypass the O2 sensors. It’s just the second pair that need to be modified to avert an error. Using a spacer is probably the easiest way. I just wrapped the ends of the second pair of 02 sensors with a reinforced insulated aluminium tape as a temporary fix, until I fitted spacers - haven’t had an error yet.
Better fuel economy also, though this is counteracted by the accelerator being more enticing (fun) to use.

Good to know.

Gland rover wrote:

There’s a few ways to bypass the O2 sensors. It’s just the second pair that need to be modified to avert an error. Using a spacer is probably the easiest way. I just wrapped the ends of the second pair of 02 sensors with a reinforced insulated aluminium tape as a temporary fix, until I fitted spacers - haven’t had an error yet.
Better fuel economy also, though this is counteracted by the accelerator being more enticing (fun) to use.

Exactly, and you will loose the reg. plate immediately and get a heavy fine on the spot.
With the new road inspections (on the road), the same will happen, and you will get a choice of either loose the plate now and here and have it towed away, or they will take the car forever (with your signature), where it will be sold and the money goes in the big black bottomless government moeny-box.
Such is the EC, I am afraid.
You Brits don't realize how fortunate you are to have voted out.

Kind regards,
Redfox.

Option for increasing performance:

Click image to enlarge

Redfox wrote:

Exactly,
You Brits don't realize how fortunate you are to have voted out.

Kind regards,
Redfox.