2014 car, 50,000 miles. First drivetrain oil change (Auto Trans, PTU, Haldex, Diff)

The 2013-15 cars have a large flange that prevents removal of the Haldex pump when doing a service.

I’ve seen enough videos showing the gunk to be concerned that I can’t do this. Would new oil with fresh additives dissolve that gunk?

I’m not up to removing the driveshaft myself and I’m in New Zealand where I can’t even get a main dealer to give me a price for cambelt change so finding someone who would do this for me will be challenging.

Filter has been changed. Oil will be when I can persuade the frigging fill bolt off!!

Im not concerned about giving the new filter and oil a short life. If leaving this for 10,000 miles and doing the oil and filter again will remove that gunk, that would be a great result. (Although the filter replacement is a B*I*T*C*H - took me all day)

I’m guessing no one knows the gunk dissolving answer for sure, but be interested in opinions. I mean to know, you’d have to inspect the pump, see the gunk, not clean it and run with new oil and look again. No one is going to do that !!

If I only get 500ml into the unit I will certainly run for a few months and swap the oil out one more time as I have that full litre.

If I had known about this before I would have done annual oil changes on the Haldex, leaving the filter until the requisite 40,000 miles. We live and learn ….

DirtyDuck wrote:

2014 car, 50,000 miles. First drivetrain oil change (Auto Trans, PTU, Haldex, Diff)

The 2013-15 cars have a large flange that prevents removal of the Haldex pump when doing a service.

I’ve seen enough videos showing the gunk to be concerned that I can’t do this. Would new oil with fresh additives dissolve that gunk?

I’m not up to removing the driveshaft myself and I’m in New Zealand where I can’t even get a main dealer to give me a price for cambelt change so finding someone who would do this for me will be challenging.

Filter has been changed. Oil will be when I can persuade the frigging fill bolt off!!

Not too much gunk in the filter…

Problem is finding a Landrover specialist in NZ.

One that comes “highly recommended “ locally, only does post 2013 cars and routine services and diagnostic. Basically oil changer with a laptop. 🤦‍♂️ and he calls himself a specialist!!!

jules wrote:

I had an issue with my Haldex and took it a independent LR specialist - he changed the massive flange for the smaller one FOC - made no difference to the car and I can get the pump out now without taking the haldex off now.

That's a good move!

https://hartmansinc.shopamsoil.com/synthet...roductive.

According to this from amsoll, fresh synthetic oil can break down sludge.

In hindsight, changing the haldex oil only (without filter ) is so easy (even without jacking the car up) I’d do this annually with the oil change. In my next life I’ll be better! 🤣

The pump really does need removing, as the screen clogs up with bits that won't break down.
 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Some of the debris collected by the screen is the surface of the friction material from the clutch plates that is part of the Haldex. They’ll never break down and need removing hence the changeable filter and cleanable screen.

Would it be safe to conclude that the oil flows through the pump first and then through the (main) filter? This seems the only way this stuff could get there and also as the pump is low and the filter high seems to be logical.

The fluid flows through the pump screen, then through the pump itself, before going onto the filter and then the fluid gallery. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Asked Borg Warner…… tumbleweed….

Where abouts in country are you? There are a few places around that specialise in 'euro' cars - these guys are likely to be the only ones that even know what a Haldex is.

And as for cambelt - it's a ford engine. Nothing about it worth spending twice the amount going to a 'specialist'. Time to find a new garage if you're getting refused! I've got the locking bolts i can loan you if you were going to do it yourself.

I’m in Beachlands, SE Auckland.


On the cambelt, my JetSki tech used to work for Landrover; he said not to worry about the cam belt, they don’t fail. But he also said they should be torqued, test driven and retorqued.i can’t see a lot of garages doing that.

The only person I could find reporting a failed cam belt on an FL2 had just had it replaced. And VW have changed their recommendation on the Up from 5 years to 160,000 miles!! (Although that doesn’t drive the water pump). The whole cam belt topic feels like a built in nightmare.

It’s a lottery. I’d rather leave it than have it done badly. I do most things myself, but I’m not sure this is in my skill set and thought you needed a special tension tool. I do have another car so I can take my time.

My local generic mechanic has given me a price and I have bought a kit in the uk to bring back with me (a lot cheaper than buying in nz)

Having said all that, I plan to keeps the car “forever “, so on things like this my attitude is “do it once at half of whatever “forever “ will be, unless there’s a definitive shorter timeframe. So it’s 10 years old. I’d like to think I can keep it going another 20, so do it in 5 years time. It will only have done 110,000 km by then. Or consider it’s already done half the kms it’s ever going to do and do it now. It is due for a coolant change.

I’ll be the only one left in the forum if I keep it that long. It’s one of the newest ones on the road.

If you have the belt and its overdue a change why not have it done now?
It's not a job beyond the scope of any competent garage, or DIY mechanic.
The belt itself may not fail but a tensioner, idler or waterpump may which can have the same result, wrecking your engine.
The belt doesn't need to be 'torqued' it is tensioned by a spring loaded tensioner pulley. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

https://www.harryseuro.co.nz/pages/haldex-service

First hit on a euro car garage that seems to know their way around a haldex. Would think there'd be a few others up there. Would recommend getting them to blast out the gallery with compressed air while it's off the car. I didn't do that last service and running into the banging rear end problem while turning and pulling away.