Ok guys, what extensions do you use to get the nut out from behind the haldex (drivers side - top) so I can change the oil and filter on my gen 4.
Tried different lengths/sizes/angles etc and the couldnt get the to budge. .
Think a gorilla tightened it up grrrr. I presume the top l/h side is a bit easier to get out seeing as there's a bit more room to get to to nut.
Everything else is sweet, its just that dumb top bolt.
Also there is 2 brackets 3/4 down on the heat shields (1 either side), they have a hook type arrangement on them. What are they for, was wondering whether I can take them off and just put the bolts back in to stop the heat shield rattleing to give me a bit more room for that stupid nut.
All suggestions greatly fully appreciated.

littlecub

Are you referring to one of the four mounting bolts that secure the haldex to the differential casing? The top two are a little difficult to access. I use several extension bars with my 1/2" socket set to crack them off then my 1/4" drive set is easy enough to spin them out.
Never had to remove any of the heat shields. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

never really had a problem just used a wobble bar extension for the socket and perseverance . 2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Bob,
I'll take a pic of the "bracket(s)" on the heatshield tomorrow and post. They dont seem to be used for anything as there's nothing around that area that they would hold plus the "loop" faces the wrong way.
Will give it another go in the morning.
Thanks for the advice,I'll add some more extensions to get the "swing" to get it undone.

cheers
littlecub

Have you dropped the cross member out the way? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Hi Nodge,
I had undone all the other bolts except for the 2 top bolts on the haldex. I should have undone them first instead of last. I've put some penetrating spray on those bolts so hopefully I can get them undone today.

cheers
littlecub

Was out in the garage at 0800, just after the sun woke up.
Got the 2 hidden bolts undone, then proceeded to get the rest of the undoing process completed.
After a bit of a struggle got the driveshaft out and then proceeded with the haldex.
After a bit of a struggle and waiting until the oil stopped dripping, then pulled the haldex out.
Got the 25mm nut of the flange with rattle gun,took a bit of coaxing too but eventually gave way.
Tried to free the flange with some gentle taps,then harder taps but it never gave way.
Seeing as this is the first time the haldex has been off the car I would imagine that they put some machine on it to put it together.
So how does one go about getting the flange off when it is stuck on?
couple of pics included




Any helpful hints greatly appreciated

littlecub

three legged puller would help and dont worry about the ring thats bonded to the flange i removed mine from the flange and dont have any problems or vibrations with out it  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Thanks for the helpful hint with the flange robblue.
But dont have a 3 prong puller,so how would you get it out unfortunately

littlecub

I bought a 3 leg puller specifically for this job but first time I did it my flange came off really easily with a few taps. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

a piece of steel with some bolts going through the flange and a large nut and bolt arrangement in the centre to push on the input shaft . hope this helps . 2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Got it done. Takes a bit more than 2-3 hrs when your on your back working under the car.
Asked a mate if he had a puller which he did, took about 1 minute to get it off when I put the puller on.
Noticed on the end where it goes into diff,there is a bit of damage just near the edge on the plate.
When I turn the plate it sounds a bit gravelly, you can just see the bearing inside.
Had already done the filter so just the 1/2 round bit thats hard to get to with the flange on is all I had to do this morning.Then putting it all back together which didnt take all that long
The rest of it turns beautifully and silently. Anyway its back on the beast, so I'll have to look for that plate from a wreckers(probably have to buy the whole unit grrr) and replace when I get one.

If anyone has a used gen 4 model that can take the plate where it meets the diff end off, give me a yell.
It will save me heaps.

littlecub

@little cub

Looks like you have the later massive flange damper which prevents the haldex pump being removed without removing the flange first.
Bell engineering replaced my flange with an earlier flange with so that in future the pump can be removed without flange needing to come off. Maybe this is something to consider.

Not having the massive damper makes no difference that I can detect. I suspect it was only added to the 2013MY FL2 as they were using more Evoque parts during the later days of FL2 production. Jules

Quote:

I suspect it was only added to the 2013MY FL2 as they were using more Evoque parts during the later days of FL2 production.

yes 2011 onwards even removing the rubber mounted ring dosent give you the space needed ( well on autos in my experience )  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5