also thought about this. the fuse box under the dash had 2 fuses out when i started and couldn't remember where, so filled fuse box fully, made no difference at all.
have since compared with a mates Freelander, which is the same spec as mine, and found the two spaces, removed the two fuses, still no change!

PED160 wrote:

I have. all engine bay fuses and links are fine. the only fuse that actually blew was in the spare wheel area. this apparently was for the accessory power socket. it took me a while to find out about that fuse box, which is why I started with the one under the glovebox.

A bit late now, but for others, photograph & better still print a copy of where all the fuses go. There is a list on the fuse box covers, but it is easier to have a photo.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic34833.html

Tyre compressor if they are half decent will draw about 30amps. Just connect straight to the battery, & better still with the engine running to keep the voltage up.

The accessory sockets have 20 amp fuses, but the printed circuit wiring is so thin don't put more than 10 amp load. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

https://fuse-box.info/land-rover/land-rove...2014-fuses

cool that's useful .  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

This actually happened on my daughters drive and all books were not available, the cover for the fuse box under the dash is missing and has been the whole time i have owned the car.
The socket I used was fused at the rear and the inflator was bought with a cigarette lighter type attachment.
The battery is brand new, changed as a precaution even though the original one tested fine.

New batteries rarely come fully charged. Have you checked the fuses with a multimeter? They have been known to pass visually but not pass current when checked for continuity.
Did you read Lightwater’s post. Just because the tyre inflator has a plug that fits a cigarette lighter socket doesn’t mean that it won’t pull more current than the circuit you are plugging in to is capable of supplying, 20 amp fuse or not.

The battery was not fitted straight from shelf, it was charged overnight, it has been charged overnight between each prosses and each day trying to repair. have also tried to start while connected to booster pack.
I have gone through all fuses with a continuity check, just to make sure and all tested good.
I think the tyre inflator, although part of the original cause, is now besides the point! it wont be used again and i have learnt a lesson for future use.
This still doesn't help me rectify the issue. Car is still disabled and showing as ECU's unable to be read.
I am going to look at earth points tomorrow, which I picked up from another discussion thread. Cant see how this could be the issue but if I have learnt anything, its that the Freelander 2 is a bit of an enigma!
I think failing that, its another Freelander destoned for the scrapyard.

Note that Main Power Supply Earths are separate from Signalling Earths on most Modules.

Good Signal Earths are important for communication between Modules and also to provide On Board Diagnostics (OBD) information.

The ones under the carpets are where to look (as in my links in my previous post in this thread).

Have you checked any connectors around the fuse box and under the passenger carpet that you may have disturbed?

This thread gives a good look around the passenger area and info on where to look.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33506.html?highlight=bcm

Well worth doing a search on the forum for Body Control Module (BCM) and Crash Mode that can be triggered by interruptions to 12v supply.

This link contains details of 3 important BCM connectors just to the right of fuse box.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic27748.html
 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Sell as spares or repairs is much more financially beneficial than scrapping it. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.