The car was working fine, starting without issue that morning and a couple of times before parking on the drive.
I then blew the fuse for the power out, plugging in a Tyre inflator, with an obvious issue.
I wasn't sure where the correct fuse was, so I pulled a few, not sure which ones, then refitted, found the blown one and replaced.
Since then, every time I press the start button it goes into a system check, all lights (heads and sides) come on and cannot be turned off. Hazards come on, which can be turned off after a few seconds, the door locks drop and reopen, all the lights on the dash come on, such as ABS, engine management, SRS. Fuel and temp gauge show full up!
This stays like that until the button is pressed again to turn it off. There is never any attempt to start at all!
I have attempted to read the codes which read as follows.
The car was working fine, starting without issue that morning and a couple of times before parking on the drive.
I then blew the fuse for the power out, plugging in a Tyre inflator, with an obvious issue.
I wasn't sure where the correct fuse was, so I pulled a few, not sure which ones, then refitted, found the blown one and replaced.
Since then, every time I press the start button it goes into a system check, all lights (heads and sides) come on and cannot be turned off. Hazards come on, which can be turned off after a few seconds, the door locks drop and reopen, all the lights on the dash come on, such as ABS, engine management, SRS. Fuel and temp gauge show full up!
This stays like that until the button is pressed again to turn it off. There is never any attempt to start at all!
I have attempted to read the codes which read as follows.



I have a few code readers and programmers which all say that the ABS, PCM and the RCM cannot be read.
I am currently using JLR SDD with Mongoose cable, which also reads the PCM, ABS and RCM as missing???
Now at the end of my tether so any help or suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.
I have a few code readers and programmers which all say that the ABS, PCM and the RCM cannot be read.
I am currently using JLR SDD with Mongoose cable, which also reads the PCM, ABS and RCM as missing???
Now at the end of my tether so any help or suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.[/img]

Have you double checked that you have put all the fuses back in the correct place.

I got the dash to light up like a Christmas tree and wouldn't start when I installed a dash cam after pulling a fuse and putting it back in the wrong position!

Yes, all fuses were replaced in the same place, new battery fitted just in case.
I've checked and double checked all fuses and connections are well made ??????

System check is normal.

All the other things are pointing to the CJB seeing that the battery is low.
It must be fuse related, if that's all you touched. Have you checked the engine bay fuse box too?
Was the ignition on when pulling fuses? Odd things can happen if fuses are pulled when the system is active, like crash mode can be set, or data can be corrupted. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

engine fuses were never touched? ignition was off when fuses were tampered with.
I cant understand why the ECU, ABS and SRS cant be seen???
I can go through the motions of clearing the faults, but don't clear.
Could this be an indication of a CAN BUS fault? is it possible to damage the CAN BUS after dropping/spiking voltage ?
If so how would I test for this????

Clutching at straws Have you tried a cold reset for starters

Have you checked any connectors around the fuse box and under the passenger carpet that you may have disturbed?

This thread gives a good look around the passenger area and info on where to look.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33506.html?highlight=bcm

Well worth doing a search on the forum for Body Control Module (BCM) and Crash Mode that can be triggered by interruptions to 12v supply.

This link contains details of 3 important BCM connectors just to the right of fuse box.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic27748.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

It's also worth checking the engine bay fuse box, as there might be a blown fuse. Lots of engine bay fuses supply power to the modules you're not able to comm with. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I have checked all connections of plugs, removed the glovebox and checked all connections behind.

The Crash fault code is showing, however, I cant clear any of the codes as the ECU's are not visible?
Once you start the crash removal, the first thing it looks for is the ECU and it immediately says no response received from ECU????

I haven't tried a start exactly as you describe, with the time between, but I did have the battery disconnected overnight and touch the terminals together before connection, and it made no difference.
I will however try this exactly as you describe it and let you know the outcome thanks.

I Like Chips wrote:

Clutching at straws Have you tried a cold reset for starters

I should have written Hard Reset, I have always known it as a Cold Reset similar to a Cold Reboot with a computer for that in a nutshell is what it is.

Take the plus and minus cables off the battery terminals and touch together for a couple of seconds. Put them back and try the engine

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36924.html?highlight=reset

Now I understand!
Yes, already done that, when the problem first reared its ugly head, with no change.

Have you checked all the fuses and fusible links in the engine bay fuse box? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I have. all engine bay fuses and links are fine. the only fuse that actually blew was in the spare wheel area. this apparently was for the accessory power socket. it took me a while to find out about that fuse box, which is why I started with the one under the glovebox.

PED160 wrote:

Yes, all fuses were replaced in the same place, new battery fitted just in case.
I've checked and double checked all fuses and connections are well made ??????