My soon to arrive FL2 does not have a towbar, so I will need to fit one. During my research into which make is best, fixed or removeable, 7 or 13 pin, or twin electrics etc I came across an Al-ko specific tow ball. Does anyone have any experience of these ? My old Swift caravan has an Al-ko hitch so I'm now thinking I should have the Al-ko ball, which would mean a fixed setup. LR2 SD4 GS
D2 TD5 S
Fiat 500S for skateboarding to the shops

Last edited by DaveS44 on 23rd Mar 2024 7:19 pm. Edited 1 time in total

After surviving 14 years of bruised shins from a fixed towbar, my latest car has a deployable towbar. Heaven! No way I’d go back to having that peice of steel stuck out the back again. It improves the departure angle of the car too.

I hear all the time people complaining about towbars sticking out and injuries caused. Have to say I've survived to nearly 50 without suffering such a fate.
I'm quite happy to have a big lump of steel protecting the rear of my car, it's saved me from major damage on at least 3 occasions.
I use the alko towball on my fixed bar. It's just slightly longer to allow for the size of the friction coupling.
The Swan neck designs, removable and fixed style of towbar are all suitable for the alko hitch head as well so you'll not have issues with any type. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I once did my shin in New Zealand. They stick out much further over there, maybe something to do with all the sheep!

Never been in so much pain. An ice pack helped marginally. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

A hire car driver backed into our previous car. The towbar went through the air conditioning & radiator. Had at least 50 witnesses. It was a recording studio across the road. I was so busy working I didn't see it but heard it. The driver was picking up Belinda Carlisle. He then drove off 20 to 30 metres with our in tow by the bumper bar stuck on the ball. It was all sorted out without any issues. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

That a towbar protects the rear of a car is (in my experience)misplaced. Our 206SW was written off because the towbar distorted the rear of the monocoque in a low speed impact in a traffic jam.

I use a Westfalia detachable with 13 pin electrics to tow my caravan (with ALKO hitch). I really can't fault it. I prefer detachable because I don't use the hitch all the time, I prefer the look of it and I don't want it to become covered in rust as they tend to become if constantly exposed to the elements. Remember, when you use the Alko hitch the towball needs to be shiny, clean and rust free.

Thanks for all your comments folks, especially bobupndowns' Al-ko references.

I'm probably going to go for the Brink removeable bar which I believe was the LR factory model. LR2 SD4 GS
D2 TD5 S
Fiat 500S for skateboarding to the shops

The Brink one was original equipment but is maybe not recommended. Do a search on "Towbar Clunk" on this forum to see why.

I would agree with the above comment - not a safe bar in my opinion, having had one.
Much better off with a different make detachable or better still fixed - depending on what you plan to tow with it.

Thanks for the heads up on Brink, looks like it'll be a Witter. Just need to decide between fixed or detachable . . . . . . . LR2 SD4 GS
D2 TD5 S
Fiat 500S for skateboarding to the shops

So I bought a Witter towbar on recommendation and because it didn't require the back bumper to be removed. I'm glad to report fitting was quick and easy with the only glitch being the two captive nuts in the main 'bar' needed tapping out. I was fortunate that a truck mechanic friend lent me his pit and checked my work and torque-ing. I would say the hardest part was accessing the clip to release the bumper reflector. Being a 2014 model, electrics were plug and play, one multi connector, an earth, two fuses and a relay installed in the engine bay fuse box, done.

Cost of the towbar, removable hitch type, and vehicle dedicated wiring was £290. Had I ticked the 'fitting' box the cost would have more than doubled. £300 for an easy hours work. LR2 SD4 GS
D2 TD5 S
Fiat 500S for skateboarding to the shops

Good choice IMO.
Ive used the same Witter towbar (detacheable) on all 3 of my FL2s just used different looms - just unbolted it before I PEx'd the car and sold the old genuine looms on ebay.

The Towbar had quite a lot of surface rust when I first removed it, with the plasticote flaking off. So I had it dipped and gave it several coats of Hammerite. The brackets for the socket always seem to rust badly so I made one from sheet stainless.

I lost the keys to the lock once but you can get replacements from Ebay much cheaper than from Witter.

Keep the detachable ball locking mechanism well lubricated or else they can jam after 18 years of use. I know. Jules