Hi everyone. i seem to have developed an issue with the central locking now. Its been fine since we purchased the car last year, but a couple of days ago the car wouldnt unlock remotely. Several attempts were made and then it unlocked. Now randomly it wont lock or unlock remotely but the headlamp button and boot button will still mostly work. I have also pressed the unlock button and all the windows go down, holding the lock button only the front two go backup. I do have an issue with one rear door that wont lock or unlock remotely and i am planning on replacing the lock module. As i only have one key i am thinking to get another made promptly, but have i a faulty key or is it a car issue? I have opened the key up and it looks like the battery has been replaced at some point. Having just spent £900 on a service i want to keep the spend low this month as it also needs rear tyres.

Try replacing the battery in the smart key as it might look like its been replaced but you don't know for sure? as for the rear windows they might need reseting? or you could try a hard reset? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

Done a reset on rear windows and they now open and close using the remote as they should so one issue fixed thankyou! Internal battery had a 21 date code on and measured 3v dropping to 2.9 when button pressed so a possible issue if not being charged properly. That said, the button will switch headlights on when the unlock button doesnt respond. i did spray some contact cleaner ( well brake disc cleaner )on the switches and it did improve them for the rest of the day.

Really struggling now. Locked out unless i use the key in the passenger door. When i use the manual door lock only the passenger door unlocks, a couple of days ago, all the doors unlocked. The dashboard switches lock and unlock the doors as they should. Headlights will operate intermittently from the remote. Managed to lock the car using the remote while the boot was open, normally the horn beeps so no idea if the key is at fault or more likely the car. What are the symptoms of a dodgy boot switch? or a dodgy locking module in the door. The windows no longer go up and down either from the remote either. Trying the door handles from the outside while locked triggered the horn to sound for some reason, whereas opening the rear door which doesnt lock sets an actual alarm off not the horn.The rear door has never locked / unlocked from getting the car so i dont think that is causing the issue. Just been for a 5 minute blast down the road, come back and the car locked first time off the remote. Any more suggestions please?

I would replace the tailgate lock cheap n easy common fault which might be upsetting the the electrics? Do a hard reset and replace the smart key battery if its dated 21 then its old I replace mine every 18 months. then lock (double tap)and unlock a few times this seems to reset every thing but will need to reset windows after the hard reset,

Good luck. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

What year is the vehicle. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

2012 xs. Im planning on getting another key made but wasnt sure if the system is faulty whether it would corrupt a new key. It seems after so long the remote goes completely dead. I was surprised after driving for 5 mins the locking worked again. Main battery is new and its also had the extra earth cable fitted as recommended on here. I was wondering if the driver or passenger door lock is iffy as it seemed to get worse after double locking. Its also started a few days after replacing the rear high level brake light seal after the car was saturated inside so maybe boot lock which i will order anyway just to discount that going forward. As a side question i ordered a cheap rear door lock off ebay ( 30 quid job) which arrived damaged so i didnt fit it. it looked a bit flimsy so should i be looking genuine landrover for this sort of stuff?
Also would a decent diagnostic tool identify a faulty module? Thinking to return to the garage that serviced it last month and ask their view.

An hour later and completely unresponsive again. Remote non op, no lights, locks , tailgate anything yet battery is at 3v.

Update key has been tested on a rf tester today at garage and appears to be working correctly so looks like a car issue.

Is that not a rechargeable battery in the key fob charged when inserted into the car?

possibly a faulty battery?

Depends on the year of the car. Early cars have a rechargeable battery, later cars have a replaceable battery.

Does it work okay with the spare second key

If your car has a Key Fob that fits into the dashboard to recharge, then this must be a failing internal key rechargeable battery which is not retaining it charge.

Have you tried asking RRUK?
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29384.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

AJ918 wrote:

Does it work okay with the spare second key

Just a quick update. A new key sorted the issue.Thanks for all your contributions.