Both cigarette lighters fused out from a dodgey plug.. Front socket sorted with a simple fuse replacement. The second socket next to the USB and Audio jack is still dead.. is this a separate fuse? I'm struggling to find it anywhere on the fuse box diagrams I have. FL2 2012..

I think that one only works with the ignition on.

The rear socket beside the audio jack is permanently live, at least it is on my 2008 model.

Each of the power sockets are individually fused. You probably most likely burnt out a bit of the copper on the printed circuit board.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic34833.html Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

On mine, the rear socket by the AUX jack and the rear socket in the tailgate are both permanently live and powered through the same fuse below the tailgate floor. Mine can get quite hot if something is left permanently connected and I've probably replaced this fuse more than any other on the vehicle. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Thanks for that. Will be back to investigating after work this evening..

Following this as my front socket has no power where the rear and luggage space sockets do…

i have checked what I believe to be the fuse in the glovebox fuse box but tgat seemed ok. Mind you, the fuse box map didn't seem to be the same as the fuse box itself.

(2013 model with front and rear sockets inside the centre console storage cubby.)

I have the MY13 model, & all 3 circuits turn off after a few minutes of turning the car off.

Passenger compartment fuse box:

F52 Cigar lighter (front) 20 amp.
F55 Auxiliary socket (rear console) 20 amp.
F63 Auxiliary socket (luggage compartment) 20 amp.


Just on the off chance, when you take out the fuse, replace it with another one. I did have one fuse with a hairline crack which was almost impossible to see.


If you can't get any of the circuits to work after replacing fuses. The circuit board more than likely is the culprit, a burnt out printed circuit.


Then you need to bypass the circuit, with a new inline fuse. I had to do this. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Lightwater wrote:

I have the MY13 model, & all 3 circuits turn off after a few minutes of turning the car off.

Lightwater wrote:

Passenger compartment fuse box:

F52 Cigar lighter (front) 20 amp.

Just on the off chance, when you take out the fuse, replace it with another one. I did have one fuse with a hairline crack which was almost impossible to see.

I'll replace that one - a bit worried that the clip on the glovebox damper ison its last legs and another dismantle may be its last . Simon of Powerful UK seems to think the damper is a Ford Mondeo part which may be a solution to that problem. (Once I can find a Ford part number).

Lightwater wrote:

If you can't get any of the circuits to work after replacing fuses. The circuit board more than likely is the culprit, a burnt out printed circuit.

Then you need to bypass the circuit, with a new inline fuse. I had to do this.

PCB burnt out, see link up this thread.

I can't say 100% that is the case, but trying to push 10 amps through the thin printed circuit, it's not going to happen long term (20 amp fused).

2 of the 3 circuits on my PCB are an open circuit!

But it is pretty basic to work around.


As far as the glovebox damper. Mine didn't stay clipped in anymore, but the actual functioning of the damper is perfectly ok (can't work out while people are breaking the damper). Had the glovebox out a hundred plus times. I drilled a hole in the damper & cable tied it on. Haven't taken a photo to date (I'll take some photos tomorrow). Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Thanks Lightwater… having read through your linked thread, I am entirely cured of any 'I'll fix it' notion that I may have been malevolently afflicted with.


I will live with it until either the glove box damper dies as a result of premature disintegration or other age related malady or the remaining two operational 12v sockets and the USB port turn their toes skywards.

Are you sure that you have used a good serviceable fuse and/or you have definitely changed the correct fuse.
I had similar problems with boot power socket, and although I was sure that I had located and changed the correct fuse the problem persisted, however the dealer changed the fuse and all was well.

Double check it all again and use a fresh fuse, it's easier than mending the printed circuit board. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I profusely apologise that taking a photo took longer than a day.

I have popped out the glovebox 100+ times (mostly due to my acoustic insulation numerous layers on installation, wearing out the damper connection) & the damper recently stopped locking in place, so the glovebox dropped.

Drill a hole & in the glovebox as per photo & cable tie to hold damper in place. Has worked well for many months.

If your service centre/mechanic is replacing air filter. A post-it note will save further expense.

Or just pop out glovebox & keep it a home for an experienced (self) installer!

 Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Cheers both…

Simon J wrote:

The rear socket beside the audio jack is permanently live, at least it is on my 2008 model.