Hello,

I have a 2009 FL 2 diesel auto which has developed a stutter when it's been driven for 10-20 minutes. It progressively deteriorates and the engine warning light flickers (doesn't remain on).

I've had the codes read, and the two that come up are the MAF sensor and MAF sensor wiring (short circuit). Not sure if these are red herrings...

The issue still occurs after:
The wiring at the connector was a bit dodgy looking so I sourced a replacement with 40cm of wiring and spliced it in.
Cleaned the MAF connector and wiring connector
Cleaned the MAF with appropriate MAF cleaner
Disconnected the MAF
Replaced the crank position sensor (long shot but easy)

Before I take it to someone (looking for suggestions in Perth Western Australia), I was going to check out how clean the throttle body is and clean that.

Yes, working a bit blind as my code reader can view and capture some sensor data but isn't reading codes...


Cheers,

Chris

Algae growth in diesel maybe. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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I am no mechanic but what about fuel related problems?

Check the fuel line running between the fuel filter and injection pump, it is clear so give it a wiggle while the engine is running. I found the seals at the filter end were allowing air in and you could see that air travel up the line and would cause the misfire you describe. After I replaced the line the problem went away.

Have you got a genuine LR Fuel Filter fitted, if not you can get problems as the car warms up.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37155.ht...uel+filter

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Luke G wrote:

Check the fuel line running between the fuel filter and injection pump, it is clear so give it a wiggle while the engine is running. I found the seals at the filter end were allowing air in and you could see that air travel up the line and would cause the misfire you describe. After I replaced the line the problem went away.

An update - I've been able to borrow a code reader (icarsoft i930) for Jag/Land Rover and this has been quite helpful...

I've replaced the MAF which resulted in one code remaining - P02E9 Diesel intake air flow position sensor circuit high.

I had removed the throttle body to check it's condition and give it a clean and noticed the main wiring connector wasn't latched.

The throttle body has been changed some time after 2013 (manufacturing year on it) so needed a bit of a clean. Otherwise it was in very good nick.

No matter what I tried, the connector latch wouldn't hold so I resorted to a couple of small cable ties to lock it in place:



I cleared the code and took it for a drive - no more codes (yay!) but the misfire is still there... (boo!)

The misfire is definitely heat related - I've booked it in with a local mechanic to have a look.

While checking out the MAF, I made a note (literally) of the wiring - colour, position etc. may come in handy for someone.





There were codes all over the place which I cleared - (door locks / headlight globes other random stuff) the ones that come back are:
U0156 Lost comms with Info Centre (aftermarket stereo fitted)
B1D13 Interior lamps 1 circuit - boot light has fallen out of it's holder?
B12CA Start/stop status indicator
B10A2 Crash input - what the???
B1026 Steering column lock

I need to get the car driving properly first...

IanMetro wrote:

Have you got a genuine LR Fuel Filter fitted, if not you can get problems as the car warms up.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37155.ht...uel+filter

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0

Luke G wrote:

Check the fuel line running between the fuel filter and injection pump, it is clear so give it a wiggle while the engine is running. I found the seals at the filter end were allowing air in and you could see that air travel up the line and would cause the misfire you describe. After I replaced the line the problem went away.

It is fixed...

I did a reset - disconnected the battery overnight, reconnected it the next day and took it for a drive in the morning.

No more relevant codes (there are others...), no more misfire. I think the combination of the throttle body connector and the reset did the job.

I've swapped back the original crank position and MAF sensors and put the s/h ones in the glovebox as spares...

I've even reinstalled the EGR blank off with no ill effects at this point.

Sorry to jump on this old post but the OPs issue sounds very similar to my ongoing issue of some 6 months.

What exactly does disconnecting the battery overnight reset?

Many thanks!

It’s the car equivalent of turn it all off, and turn it back on again. Leaving the battery disconnected overnight allows various circuits and capacitors to lose their charge and allows the system to forget (reset) most settings. A quick way of doing this is to disconnect both +ve and -ve leads from the battery and connect them together, go get a tea or coffee, reconnect the +ve and -ve to the battery. The radio should keep its settings but you might have to reset the windows.

Tominator wrote:

Sorry to jump on this old post but the OPs issue sounds very similar to my ongoing issue of some 6 months.

What exactly does disconnecting the battery overnight reset?

Many thanks!