The problem i had with the i6 misfiring is cured mainly with help from Freel2 members.

Started dropping power occasionally to the point that it could hardly pull away, would pick up after a min or so, no code showing, into local garage who checked it and went on a run, report was they can't find anything wrong and it pulls like a train, two days later it did it again.

Went to start it the other day and it would not start, occasionally happens first time, but there was also a strange noise, on the second try no attempt at starting, dash and head lights etc working, no clicking noise nothing, again no codes, next day when i went out to it it wouldn't unlock so used the key (luckily this time it wasn't parked up to the caravan) popped the bonnet and checked the battery which read 0.2, changed it for another one but still will not start, battery is about 7 month's old and on recharge is fine.

Now the problem is what's caused it? is it something new or is it from the original problem?
Cheers Guys. Common sense isn't very common.
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2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

Last edited by axle on 1st Dec 2023 2:48 am. Edited 1 time in total

Do you have a battery tester to check the CCA of the Battery

I do but the engine wont turn, there is no response at all from the engine or starter. Common sense isn't very common.
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2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

You should be able to do a CCA test on the battery. With my tester I just set it to battery out of vehicle. You need to check the battery (not just volts) before anything else.

Are you sure that battery is charging from alternator?

I am not sure if this applies to petrol versions, but intermittent unexplained loss of battery power has been caused by the 'blue wire' being damaged.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38056.html?highlight=blue+wire

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Chips, how do you set battery out of vehicle?

Ian, even if the alternator was kaput a charged battery should start or at least try to start the car.

The dash isn't showing any warning lights, they all come on and off as normal, full beam work along with all the other lights, plus the radio sat nav etc.

Getting no response at all when pressing the start button with my foot on the pedal.

Any easy way to check the starter motor?

Just to make matters worse it's parked on gravel so jacking up will be an issue. Common sense isn't very common.
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2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

One of these, there are other makes at different prices

axle wrote:

Chips, how do you set battery out of vehicle?

Ian, even if the alternator was kaput a charged battery should start or at least try to start the car.

The dash isn't showing any warning lights, they all come on and off as normal, full beam work along with all the other lights, plus the radio sat nav etc.

Getting no response at all when pressing the start button with my foot on the pedal.

Any easy way to check the starter motor?

Just to make matters worse it's parked on gravel so jacking up will be an issue.

You don't need to jack the car up to get to the starter motor, it's accessed from above.
Try this to test the starter motor in situ.
First of, make sure the car is in neutral with the handbrake on.
Get a some electrical wire (does not need to be heavy guage)
Attach a small crocodile clip to one end.
Clip the end with the crocodile clip to the small terminal on top of the starter motor, be careful not to contact the large terminal.
Take the other end and touch the positive terminal on the battery.
Starter motor should turn over but will not start the car, assuming your battery is good.
If it turns over, then your issue is more than likely an electrical issue to the starter motor.
If that is the case, check the main power cable going to the starter plus all the connections. If that is ok, check that you get power to ignition wire (small wire at starter) with a multi meter. This can only be checked when the start button is pressed, so place the meter against the open bonnet facing the windscreen. If the lead's are not long enough you will need a second person.

Forgot to mention....... make sure the main earth from the battery to the engine is good.👍 Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

On the i6 it's accessed from underneath.
It was the first thing I ever sorted on my Freelander.
I managed to hit it with a hammer as the father-in-law pressed the start button and get the engine started, thus being able to put it on ramps, which made it easier to then remove the starter motor.

My mistake, didn't realise it was an automatic.
Same principle for testing the starter motor though.
Car in park and parking brake on. 👍 Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Have you tried jump starting it with another car ? Jules

No i haven't, just changed the battery.

Typical that when i need it most it's covered in snow, don't think the Hyundai will be as good  Common sense isn't very common.
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2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

Well it turns out it was the starter motor AND the battery, not happy with the battery as i bought it in May!
Will get in touch with them in the new year. Common sense isn't very common.
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2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

What was the battery ?

I ask because I keep getting low battery warnings. Starts Ok every time though.

Have been given a used "but good" battery - which has normal, as expected, voltages during starting but I still get low battery warnings during the starting process.

Not sure whats going on. Jules