Thanks for link.
Have we discovered why the garage 'Battery Tests' fail to find the lack of capacity (with age).

'Mechanics prefer small sizes and device manufactures have developed handheld testers, which induce a momentary high-current pulse that corresponds to the entered CCA value. Ohm’s law calculates the internal resistance on hand of the induced voltage drop, and the device provides a CCA-equivalent reading. This test method is fast and convenient, but it does not estimate capacity'.

If I understand this article correctly, it says that a fully charged battery (even when old and/or damaged and therefore low capacity) will pass this momentary 'quick check'.

Our forum is full of reports that failing batteries have passed the garage checks but on changing the battery cured the problems.

I experienced this quite recently when my failing battery passed the Quick-Fit test and although covered by a warranty was declared serviceable. After a few months more I changed it and cured the ongoing problems.

It leads me to believe our old method of measuring across each individual cell was better after all. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Just had my car serviced. I put in a new Varta Silver F18 battery 800 CCA a year ago.

My mechanic tested the battery, 900 CCA.

I would guess that a battery a year old is probably down about 50 CCA. So should be about 750 CCA. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

2014 se tech. 58k. Possibly still original battery.

Hello all. I think my battery may be on the way out too. Went out to the shop approx half a mile away and double locked the car. Returned about 15 mins later and double clicked to open. Interior light came on and mirrors opened up but all the doors inc boot were still locked. I fiddled about with the remote and still nothing would open. However the boot did unlock and was able to access the car that way.

I checked the voltage with my very simple cigar lighter tester. Approx 11 with ignition only on. Approx 14.1 with engine running. No problem with starting the engine.

Is this a sign that the battery is on the way out. Thanks for reading and I would appreciate your opinions.

Last edited by ggb on 9th Nov 2023 5:49 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Potentially, if the battery is more than 4 years, it's well past its best, and will only cause problems. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

ggb wrote:

2014 se tech. 58k. Possibly still original battery.

Hello all. I think my battery may be on the way out too. Went out to the shop approx half a mile away and double locked the car. Returned about 15 mins later and double clicked to open. Interior light came on and mirrors opened up but all the doors inc boot were still locked. I fiddled about with the remote and still nothing would open. However the boot did unlock and was able to access the car that way.

I checked the voltage with my very simple cigar lighter tester. Approx 11 with ignition only on. Approx 14.1 with engine running. No problem with starting the engine.

Is this a sign that the battery is on the way out. Thanks for reading and I would appreciate your opinions.

Ian metro - Yes I knew about the emergency key. As it was cold dark and wet it was easier to use the boot. I will however check it functions properly. Thank you.

Nodge68 - Agree. I will invest in a new battery. Thank you.

ggb wrote:

2014 se tech. 58k. Possibly still original battery.

Hello all. I think my battery may be on the way out too. Went out to the shop approx half a mile away and double locked the car. Returned about 15 mins later and double clicked to open. Interior light came on and mirrors opened up but all the doors inc boot were still locked. I fiddled about with the remote and still nothing would open. However the boot did unlock and was able to access the car that way.

I checked the voltage with my very simple cigar lighter tester. Approx 11 with ignition only on. Approx 14.1 with engine running. No problem with starting the engine.

Is this a sign that the battery is on the way out. Thanks for reading and I would appreciate your opinions.

Merlij79 - Thanks for your reply. The cig lighter tester is the only way I had to test the voltage. I knew it was not going to be very accurate. Also I don’t have access to a charger. So I went ahead and replaced the battery with a Yuasa 800 stop/start. I now have the peace of mind that I should not get caught out.

It looked like it was the original battery as it was LR badged. So it lasted 9 years and 58k.

Are the warranties attached to batteries actually worth anything ?

Anybody managed to successfully claim on a defective battery ?

What was the process involved ?

I imagine returning a battery would be a major hassle.

EDIT
Its all here
https://www.tayna.co.uk/warranty-procedure Jules

Last edited by jules on 12th Nov 2023 11:36 am. Edited 1 time in total

This Exide AGM is a lot cheaper than a Varta F21 (AGM)- same size, Ah and CCA (£130 vs £190)

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ek800/

Only 3 year warranty but does that really matter. Jules

jules wrote:

Are the warranties attached to batteries actually worth anything ?

Anybody managed to successfully claim on a defective battery ?

What was the process involved ?

I imagine returning a battery would be a major hassle.

EDIT
Its all here
https://www.tayna.co.uk/warranty-procedure

jules wrote:

Are the warranties attached to batteries actually worth anything ?

Anybody managed to successfully claim on a defective battery ?

What was the process involved ?

I imagine returning a battery would be a major hassle.

EDIT
Its all here
https://www.tayna.co.uk/warranty-procedure

jules wrote:

Are the warranties attached to batteries actually worth anything ?

Anybody managed to successfully claim on a defective battery ?

What was the process involved ?

I imagine returning a battery would be a major hassle.

EDIT
Its all here
https://www.tayna.co.uk/warranty-procedure

Thanks.
Tis as I thought - warranty not worth the hassle of claiming.
Tanya will not be interested in a battery that is 4 years and 6 months into its warranty period, unless it blows up or something equally dramatic.
The fact that after standing for 4 days after an overnight charge its down to 11.8v and causes the electronics to get upset during the initial start up will probably not satisfy a claim.

Somethings are worth fighting for; I'm getting a whole new vacuum cleaner as the wand connection broke within 1 year - took a few phone calls and sending pics. I would have been happy with just a new wand but they insisted on sending a new cleaner and resetting the warranty period. John Lewis - a proper shop .

But life is short - I'll just get another battery. Jules

Changed battery today.

Found I couldn't get the NEG terminal clamp tight enough to stop it rotating. Checked the terminals on the battery - same size as previous battery.

Then noticed that the NEG clamp is different to the POS clamp. I assume to give better access to the nut.



But the design is poor and allows the clamp to twist so that is not as tight as it should be even when fully done up. I had to realign it in a vice before it would grip the NEG terminal post properly.




Anyway replacement battery is much better - no low voltage warnings and only dropping to 11v on starting.

 Jules