Gosh - that's definitely a first on this forum.
Glad you've recovered. Ive seen a grass snake here in the Uk but never an adder.

Snakes give me the willies - bit of a phobia about them - which the rest of the family think is very funny Jules

I’m lucky enough to have seen 4 adders and 3 grass snakes while out and about. On one occasion an adder and a grass snake within 100m. They are really impressive creatures and you really have to be unlucky to get bitten by an adder. I’m glad you’re feeling better and hope that the Freely gets sorted soon.

I've seen slow worms (saw one on Friday) and adders at work, but they are never far from the hedgerow.
They seem to keep away from the children, which is a bonus. I could do without the paperwork if a child was bitten by a particularly aggressive adder. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Slowworms are not snakes but, harmless to humans, legless lizards. If you have them in your area then I’m really jealous. The only things they’ll hurt are bad for your garden.

Quite correct, slow worms are legless lizards. We have lots of them in the banks surrounding the sports field.
This one was negotiating a gravel pathway on Friday. I put it back in the long grass, before it got trodden on by a child.
It looks to have lost its tail recently too, so may well have had a run in with one of the local cats.

Click image to enlarge

An update on the propshaft saga, today was the actual first time i had to remove the prop from the Freelander, after checking about to make sure Hissing Sid's mates were not aroind lol, i got under the vehicle and started the job, firstly removed 6 front torx bolts holding front prop flange to ptu, they came out no problem, then proceed to make my way from front to back and removing both carriers and also the heat shields, then i got to the rear of the prop, and removed the 6 torx bolts. this is where it went pete tong, i cannot for the life of me remove the rear prop flange from the haldex coupling, it seems to be seized in there, any ideas, tried everything at the moment, after 4 hours i gave up, soaked it in penetrating oil and have left it for over night,,,,,any ideas help appreciated --------------------------------------------------------
2010 SD4 HSE Auto and 1997 Toyota Landcruiser 4.7 Auto both our Daily Drives

There is a hole on the Haldex side of the flange, where you can put a punch to tap out the propshaft joint. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thanks Nodge will have a look tomorrow --------------------------------------------------------
2010 SD4 HSE Auto and 1997 Toyota Landcruiser 4.7 Auto both our Daily Drives

Well today I finally got the propshaft of, like i said it was stuck on the haldex flange but made this little tool, and with three hits of a little sledge lol, the propshaft detached from the haldex, now while its off, me thinks i will do the oil and filters on the haldex and maybe renew the oil in the diff?? any wise words on those thoughts?? --------------------------------------------------------
2010 SD4 HSE Auto and 1997 Toyota Landcruiser 4.7 Auto both our Daily Drives

If you gone to all the trouble of removing the prop then I'd change the haldex oil/filters and rear diff oil and probably do the PTU too. Jules

Ok ordered a Haldex Service kit with oil,,,,regarding rear differential oil am i correct in saying it uses 75W-90 GL5 fully synthetic??, is it the same oil for PTU??



Sorry for the questions but i want to make sure i get this one right,,, a few hours job that was intended as now taken me into week three lol. --------------------------------------------------------
2010 SD4 HSE Auto and 1997 Toyota Landcruiser 4.7 Auto both our Daily Drives

They are different

PTU: 0.75L Castrol BOT 118/95+ 75W90 or Millers TRX SYNTH 75W/90, S & A Geartech FS 75w-90


Rear Diff: 0.75L Castrol EPX 80W90 GL5 or S & A Geartech EP 80w90

S & A = Smith & Allan lubricants, Darlington Jules

I used 75w90 in my diff. LR specify some special stuff, but it's just a diff, so mine got quality 75w90 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thanks Nodge and Jules, correct oil ordered for both today. --------------------------------------------------------
2010 SD4 HSE Auto and 1997 Toyota Landcruiser 4.7 Auto both our Daily Drives

Update, both Oils arrived today from Islands 4X4:
1 x Oil IRD Freelander 2 BOT118 /95 PLUS (CARLUBE) LR003137 BA4744 XZF001 (BA4744 XZF001) = £13.00
1 x Oil For Rear Diff Differential FL2 (Ravenol) LR003156 (LR003156) = £9.99

Sub-Total: £22.99
UK Delivery (FedEx Courier) (Standard): £6.00
VAT 20%: £5.80
Total: £34.79

Not bad priced i thought, anyway both oils changed (the PTU was a sod to get the oil out), the Haldex is fitted and tomorrow the prop goes back on and fingers crossed all ok  --------------------------------------------------------
2010 SD4 HSE Auto and 1997 Toyota Landcruiser 4.7 Auto both our Daily Drives